Overview: Moncler built its name on developing clothes associated with the great outdoors. So how can it approach summer when its iconic down jacket is recognised across the world as the ski-resort uniform of choice? Making clothes for sunnier climes throws up some interesting challenges. Conceived by Thom Browne, the Gamme Bleu label embodies the designer’s own idiosyncratic approach to outerwear classics and so the S/S 2018 collection reflects the synergy between Moncler’s active wear expertise and Browne’s surreal take on the sartorial.
Scene setting: Guests sat around a set that was trans-seasonal. The centre of the catwalk split into both summer and winter – half beach and half ski resort. As is customary with Browne’s shows for his namesake label during Paris Fashion Week, the choreography was unhurried and dramatic. Models each took their turn walking through sand and fake-snow, going on to take their place on the white deckchairs facing the audience. Each peeled off their down-filled looks made with over-sized plastic zippers to reveal a series of city smart tailoring. Performance or pantomime, Browne showcased a smooth shift between summer and frost.
Best in show: The collection was developed and shown in three groups, each separated by colour: grey, madras plaid and formal black-tie. Sport coats, peacoats, trenches, cardigans, polo shirts, trousers and shorts were made in traditional wool suiting, cashmere, wool mohair as well as nylon ripstop, mesh and rainproof slicker. Standout were the summery dimpled seersucker three-piece suits worn in contrasting plaids.
