Mood board: Rick Owens based his spring collection around deconstructing the M65 field jacket, which spoke to the practical needs of the urban man. More surprising was Owens' signature palette of decayed concrete and noir, that erred towards the light in hues of mint and rouge this season.
Best in show: From artfully draped mint-green jerseys to paper-thin, transparent snakeskin smocks and robust sculptures in poppy-red that folded or jutted from the body, Owens – who in the past has acknowledged that he's a fan of Joseph Beuys – also delivered on his reputation for conceptual fashion.
Finishing touches: Owens' base-line aesthetic has been honed to such a degree that he can really experiment with form and function. This has also been applied to the continuing evolution of footwear. For spring, his space-flight trainers transformed into a genre-defying ankle boot-cum-sandal with Velcro panelling.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
