Lanvin S/S 2016

2 male models wearing black & red clothing, smiling at the camera — (Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver's brave new spin on 1980s New Wave included paper-bag waist pants, cross-body suit jackets, car coats in supple leather, flashes of animal print and spread collar knits. A fine wool suit stood out as much for its summer weight ease as its sporty zip front and slim leg - which is to say, the collection leaned largely dark and generously proportioned.

Best in show: For a collection that eschewed ornamentation, the jackets and shirts featuring exposed seams and wayward threads (or more precisely, fringes) felt like welcome deviations. This season's sneakers were similarly scaled back - although arguably edgier thanks to an all-black boot silhouette. If you were tiring of the futuristic robo styles, now's the time to revisit the range.

Finishing touches: Bags, by and large, were supple with multi-purpose appeal. A half-moon shaped canvas carryall was scaled up so that it appeared rugged, even military-inspired. By comparison, a satchel in grey leather would accommodate day-to-day city needs. With canvas handles and an adjustable strap, the matte grey snakeskin scrunched tote seemed versatile and distinctive in equal measure.

3 male models in dark clothing, holding handbags

3 male models in black &amp; red clothing

Group of male models in dark clothing standing around a studio