Mood board: Kris Van Assche sought to shift the Dior Homme register, considering the ways in which dressing down could appear as polished as dressing up. Although the show began with a three-piece suit matched with trainers and included no shortage of impeccably tailored jackets, the freshness came from camouflage print argyle patterning, polo knits styled over shirts and ties, and cargo pants stylised with not one pocket per leg but several. 'The dialogue with Christian Dior continues in a more abstract way,' was Van Assche’s explanation in the show notes.
Scene setting: The transformation of the Tennis Club de Paris into a contemporary indoor garden where upwards of 2,000 Fée de Neiges rosebushes filled triangular parterres made for quite a sublime mise-en-scène. Wall-to-wall slanted mirrors set against a black backdrop accentuated the impact of the models winding through the parquet pathways.
Best in show: The idea of subverting the bourgeois Frenchman by allowing him to dabble in street style played out strongest in the outerwear offering, from the MA-1 bombers reimagined as a leather parka lined in orange, or better still, a blouson in orange croc. The floral-embroidered sleeved varsity jackets that closed the show also effectively infused house codes with new cool. If anyone missed the sculptural jewellery tucked into the hands of the first five models, these colourfully glazed talismans created by ceramic artist Kristin McKirdy extended the collection’s uniqueness. And if you’re going to put your faith in a lucky charm, it might as well be from Dior.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekFrom sumo wrestling to Singaporean fare, medieval manuscripts to magnetic exhibitions, the Wallpaper* team have traversed the length and breadth of culture in the British capital this week
-
Doshi Retreat at the Vitra Campus is both a ‘first’ and a ‘last’ for the great Balkrishna DoshiDoshi Retreat opens at the Vitra campus, honouring the Indian modernist’s enduring legacy and joining the Swiss design company’s existing, fascinating collection of pavilions, displays and gardens
-
Issey Miyake’s shape-shifting A/W 2025 collection transforms the paper bag into something you can wear‘Can anything be considered a garment, as long as it’s on the body?’ says creative director Satoshi Kondo of the art-infused collection, which sees the everyday reimagined
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for AlaïaAs creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 showAs guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
