Oliver Spencer S/S 2016

Male models wearing Oliver Spencer Spring / Summer collection 2016

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: A coterie of chaps sauntered around a metal grid structure wearing a series of relaxed, modern classics. Taking inspiration from American minimalist artist Richard Serra's early experiences making sculpture using rubber and fibreglass, the clothes were texturally eclectic in soft suede, coated linen and beaten cotton.

Scene setting: The composer Philip Glass once worked as an assistant for Serra (the two befriended each other in Paris in the early sixties) and so the show's fitting score was a classical string quartet. Q Strings reconstructed a series of modern tracks that were played live; the melody elevated the easiness of the clothes to a level of quotidian elegance.

Finishing touches: Suede and pebble-grain leather rucksacks were worn over unlined tailoring. Spencer's relaxed Judo pants - in technical fabric, plaid and heavy cotton - were worn with a bare ankle and a series of handsome two-tone sneakers.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.