Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2015

Stefano Pilati had architecture on the mind when drawing the lines of his third collection for Italian menswear monolith Zegna. The show began quite literally with models pegged like nails into a raw cement structure and then moved smoothly into Pilati's fashion fixation with space. Graphic lines were key - both in terms of the designer's fine cutting on flattened jackets or pleat-front trousers, as well as his choice of textiles that buzzed with bold striping. But like most of the things this gifted designer does, a basic theme quickly became beautiful. The stripes, for example, were crafted from sewn-on strips of fabric that flapped like window shades over a sweater. And three differently-scaled stripes were melanged together in a soft grey mix of jacket, pant and shirt, chicly set off by a gentlemanly silk neck scarf. In the end, though, Pilati's main point centred around tension: double-faced cashmeres in inky hues of navy and black were cut into tailored pieces rather than knits; suspenders, longer jackets and exaggerated cuffs all brought a retro, dandified air to the hyper modern looks, and pillars of comfort - from tennis shoes, taffeta blousons and anoraks - all comfortably snuggled into a relaxed formality that Pilati is so quickly establishing at this venerable men's house.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Rosewood Miyakojima: ‘Japan, but not as most people know it’
Rosewood Miyakojima offers a smooth balance of intuitive Japanese ‘omotenashi’ fused with Rosewood’s luxury edge
-
Thrilling, demanding, grotesque and theatrical: what to see at Berlin Gallery Weekend
Berlin Gallery Weekend is back for 2025, and with over 50 galleries taking part, there's lots to see
-
A first look inside the new Oxford Street Ikea. Spoiler: blue bags and meatballs are included
The new Oxford Street Ikea opens tomorrow (1 May), giving Londoners access to the Swedish furniture brand right in the heart of the city
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Fendi to Dior: A/W 2021’s standout menswear shows
Join us as we delight in the A/W 2021 menswear shows, featuring digital catwalk collections from brands including Fendi, Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion week
Themes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
-
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's