Two side-by-side photos of male models wearing looks from Brioni's collection. In the first photo there is a model wearing a grey top, blue and grey jacket, grey patterned shorts and black shoes. In the background there is a man wearing a shirt, trousers and coat. In the second photo there is a model wearing a white shirt, black suit and black shoes. In the background there is a man facing in a different direction
(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Brioni may be rooted in hyper classical menswear, but creative director Brendan Mullane is shaking up its rich traditions. For spring, the designer collaborated with Los Angeles-based artist James Welling, who created a triple exposed floral print that was showered over zip front collared jackets, short sleeved silk shirts and even impeccably crafted Prince of Wales check suits. The zany blooms enlivened silhouettes borrowed from 1950s Italy and America: fresh, clean, precisely cropped and squared off with a retro edge. But Mullane then mixed things up further by taking Brioni's finely crafted suits, which require hundreds of microscopic steps in order to make, and cut them from brilliant shades of grape and emerald. The collection resonated beautifully in a glass house-esque structure, surrounded by a series of eight videos shot by Artist Collier Schorr.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Two side-by-side photos of male models wearing looks from Brioni's collection. In the first photo there is a model wearing a blue and white jacket, dark blue trousers and black shoes. In the background there are two models wearing blue tops, grey jackets, grey trousers and black shoes. In the second photo there is a model wearing a white shirt, tie and blue suit

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Two side-by-side photos of male models wearing looks from Brioni's collection. In the first photo the model is wearing a blue patterned top, light coloured shorts, black shoes and has a bag on the floor next to him. In the second photo the model is wearing a white shirt, a grey top with dark red along the neckline, a grey suit and black shoes. In the background there is a person facing the opposite direction and an image of a man's face showing on a large screen

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Two side-by-side photos of male models wearing looks from Brioni's collection. In the first photo the model is wearing a green patterned jacket, grey trousers and black shoes. There is a large screen in the background showing a man's face. In the second photo there is a model wearing a dark teal top, light coloured trousers and sandals. There is a bag next to him on the floor and several other models in the background

(Image credit: TBC)

Two side-by-side photos of male models wearing looks from Brioni's collection. In the first photo the model is wearing a white shirt, blue patterned jumper, grey suit and black shoes. A person can be seen in the background. In the second photo the model is wearing a white shirt, tie, blue patterned suit and black shoes. There are two other models in suits in the background

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

JJ Martin