Mood board: In 1978, artist David Wojnarowicz photographed a man wearing a paper mask of French poet, Arthur Rimbaud. Jonathan Anderson sent facsimiles of the mask as invitations to his A/W 20 show. He had seen a retrospective of Wojnarowicz’s work at KW Institute for Contemporary Art in Berlin. ‘I was thinking about how he interpreted the poet during that particular moment in New York and what that would be like today,’ Anderson said. Dressed in a new collaboration with Wojnarowicz’s estate, twosomes of mannequins sat wearing Rimbaud masks in between the guests. The collection zoomed in on the JWA look: the idea of the shift, a blowing up of proportions. The suggestion that a coat uses a total of fabric. An avant-garde timelessness.
Sound bite: Lining peeked out from below wool trousers; second layer shirting hovered underneath coats; lapels paired in harmony. There was a paisley silk duffel coat cut with trapeze proportions and long paisley tunics. ‘It’s really about a JW look. It’s about going back to triangular cutting, and it’s looking at how you do product that is substantial instead of having 15 coats,’ Anderson said. ‘Maybe have one coat in multiples and develop it to the point where it feels like it has always been there, like Rimbaud’s face. You take something which is poetic and you make it underground.’
Team work: There was a see-now-buy-now capsule featuring felted intarsia knit jumpers with an interpretation of the original artwork Untitled (Burning House) by Wojnarowicz. Proceeds will go to Visual AIDS, an organisation founded in 1988 to raise awareness and support HIV+ artists. ‘It is not about having a political voice just for the sake of it, it’s about stimulating creativity through having a political voice. It’s thinking before you speak, thinking before you act, and I think that’s what I like about the collection. There has been more of a reduction. I was looking at how David dresses and Rimbaud and the vocabulary of that moment in the 1970s when America felt like the end of the world but it wasn’t. There is an optimism as much as it is incredibly heavy. This sense that, you know, there will be a solution.’
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
