Mood board: The work that Francesco Risso is doing for Marni feels like a mirror of the times. Its tribal eccentricity chimes with the current mood for a more fluid, polyglot, personal style. In London this spirit is there in the artisanal ambisexuality of Charles Jeffery. The sex of Mowalola Ogunlesi. The modish trompe-l'œil of Stefan Cooke and the unfurled masculinity of Per Götesson. In Milan, the arrival of Risso’s off-beat approach stands out. Away from the formal sartorial codes and well-crafted, purposeful proportions, Marni is a force of fresh, wild abandon. For the coming season, the designer explored the youth of today – the pluralities of their lives, lived through multiple apps and across many cities. This translated into a host of playfully nutty clothes.
Best in show: Allegro Non Troppo – Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animated parody of Walt Disney's Fantasia – influenced the clashing sensuality and energy of the season. Colourful, dreamy frames from the film were magnified and printed across the front of wide-collar shirts and crushed silk pyjama tops. Patchwork prints, nubby bouclé coats and moleskin jackets and trousers had bold proportions; they were classic in their relative conservatism.
Finishing touches: Mohair striped sweaters worn as twin-sets, pastel puffa jackets with zip-up sides, misaligned pinstripes, synthetic reptile patterns. Baggy pony skin pants. Foamy neoprene suits. Banana sock boots! Padlocks, mitten flasks and chains. This line taken from the poem presented to showgoers summed up Risso’s foresight: ‘A tangle of neurons, antiphons, emotions/They protest for everything and wear notions./One becomes the other, the other becomes one, nobody is ever alone under the sun.’ It was a carnival of contemporary chic.
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Kim Jones to exit Fendi after four yearsFendi has announced that Kim Jones is leaving his role as artistic director of womenswear and couture at the Italian house, though will remain at Dior Men
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‘Natural gold’ straw weaving by Hanny Newton wins the inaugural QEST Sanderson rising star award'I have been passionate and driven to champion straw embroidery as an exquisite, sustainable “natural gold”’: rising star Hanny Newton on winning the inaugural award
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‘If you’re a proper designer, you can design many different forms’: Jony Ive unpacks his modular LoveFrom, Moncler outerwear collectionFive years in the making, LoveFrom and Moncler’s shape-shifting jacket collection marks a new direction for Jony Ive. Speaking to Laura May Todd in Milan, he talks forging new paths and staying curious
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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When Wallpaper* fashion team was part of Marni S/S 2022 showMilan Fashion Week’s Marni S/S 2022 show was an immersive and inclusive celebration that put the audience, Team Wallpaper* among them, at the heart of the action
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
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Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
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Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
