Mood board: The work that Francesco Risso is doing for Marni feels like a mirror of the times. Its tribal eccentricity chimes with the current mood for a more fluid, polyglot, personal style. In London this spirit is there in the artisanal ambisexuality of Charles Jeffery. The sex of Mowalola Ogunlesi. The modish trompe-l'œil of Stefan Cooke and the unfurled masculinity of Per Götesson. In Milan, the arrival of Risso’s off-beat approach stands out. Away from the formal sartorial codes and well-crafted, purposeful proportions, Marni is a force of fresh, wild abandon. For the coming season, the designer explored the youth of today – the pluralities of their lives, lived through multiple apps and across many cities. This translated into a host of playfully nutty clothes.
Best in show: Allegro Non Troppo – Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animated parody of Walt Disney's Fantasia – influenced the clashing sensuality and energy of the season. Colourful, dreamy frames from the film were magnified and printed across the front of wide-collar shirts and crushed silk pyjama tops. Patchwork prints, nubby bouclé coats and moleskin jackets and trousers had bold proportions; they were classic in their relative conservatism.
Finishing touches: Mohair striped sweaters worn as twin-sets, pastel puffa jackets with zip-up sides, misaligned pinstripes, synthetic reptile patterns. Baggy pony skin pants. Foamy neoprene suits. Banana sock boots! Padlocks, mitten flasks and chains. This line taken from the poem presented to showgoers summed up Risso’s foresight: ‘A tangle of neurons, antiphons, emotions/They protest for everything and wear notions./One becomes the other, the other becomes one, nobody is ever alone under the sun.’ It was a carnival of contemporary chic.
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Daisy Margarita Bar reimagines the Mexican tavern with vaquero flair in Los AngelesFrom frozen guacamole margaritas to lamb shank with frijoles puercos, this new Sherman Oaks destination mixes playful gastronomy with tradition
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The best of California desert architecture, from midcentury gems to mirrored dwellingsWhile architecture has long employed strategies to cool buildings in arid environments, California desert architecture developed its own distinct identity –giving rise, notably, to a wave of iconic midcentury designs
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Meet Rural Futurisms, 'agents for catalytic change' in South Africa's landscape design fieldLed by Lesego Bantsheng, the collective is challenging conventional ideas of landscape by reimagining how rural communities connect with heritage, ecology and design
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How Bureau Betak transformed the runway show: ‘Our currency is emotion and memory’Pioneering production company Bureau Betak has masterminded some of the most inspiring runway sets of the last 30 years, dazzling both real-life guests and an ever-growing virtual global audience. Hugo Macdonald meets the people behind the magic
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‘Changing Fashion’: a new exhibition explores how photographer David Bailey reshaped style‘David Bailey’s Changing Fashion’ at the Marta Ortega Pérez (MOP) Foundation in A Coruña, Spain is a wide-ranging retrospective of the British photographer’s fashion oeuvre. Here, his son Fenton Bailey tells Wallpaper* more
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The collections you might have missed this S/S 2026 menswear seasonBetween the headliners in Paris, Milan and Florence, a few off-schedule displays are deserving of honourable mention – from Martine Rose’s sexually-charged portrait of Kensington Market to Sander Lak’s appointment-only namesake debut
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Let there be light: a closer look at Prada’s stripped-back S/S 2026 show set‘This is the first time the Fondazione is completely bare, with the light coming in,’ said Raf Simons backstage at Prada’s ‘light, fresh, colourful’ and ‘human’ S/S 2026 men’s show in Milan
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The standout shows of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: Prada to DunhillWallpaper* picks the very best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ ‘light, fresh’ and ‘human’ display to Dunhill’s exploration of English dress codes
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 20-23 June, Milan Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the Italian fashion capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
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What the Wallpaper* editors are looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026As Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2026 begins in Florence, the Wallpaper* style team select the moments they will be looking out for – from Jonathan Anderson’s anticipated Dior debut to outings from Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Prada
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Milan exhibition celebrates 20 years of Armani Privé: ‘Haute couture is fashion when it becomes art’Hosted at the Tadao Ando-designed Armani/Silos, ‘Giorgio Armani Privé 2005-2025, Twenty Years of Haute Couture’ displays an expansive collection of the Italian designer’s showstopping haute couture creations
