Mood board: As the threat of protest looms above the seasonal fashion shows in Paris, Kawakubo’s theme for her A/W 2019 show was ‘Finding beauty in the dark.’ Guests were invited into a densely packed space with low lighting and exposed ceiling beams and wires. Before the start, the Los Angeles-based electronic duo VOWWS played a deep rousing growl, which reverberated through the body. It created an unsettling, combative environment. A day earlier, Vetements had shown its collection at the French National Museum of Natural History on a cast of people who had the knowledge to tap into the dark web. Both of these collections addressed the anarchy of our times in their own ways. Vetements riffed on suburban-loaner uniforms of the late 1990s. Kawakubo borrowed from punk and grunge.
Best in show: Models wore sheer aertex vests and fish net tights, exposed by sartorial chaps or open jackets. There were velvety leggings, tabards encrusted with silver metal jewels, spiky black knuckle dusters worn as trailing body jewellery over felt coats peppered with small holes. Archetypal black tailoring peaked out from underneath heavily textured dresses. A sequin boucle dress was worn with a smart velvet coat. Tailored long jackets were layered with more traditional lengths as if they competed for attention. The models marched purposefully in dramatic make-up, moving to their own beat.
Team work: The longstanding collaboration with Nike continues for the coming season. Models wore customised Air Jordans in black, cuffed with buckle belts and silver rings. They took on an athletic aggression that worked with Kawakubo’s re-punk prophecy.
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus A/W 2019
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus A/W 2019
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus A/W 2019
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus A/W 2019
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
