Mood board: As the threat of protest looms above the seasonal fashion shows in Paris, Kawakubo’s theme for her A/W 2019 show was ‘Finding beauty in the dark.’ Guests were invited into a densely packed space with low lighting and exposed ceiling beams and wires. Before the start, the Los Angeles-based electronic duo VOWWS played a deep rousing growl, which reverberated through the body. It created an unsettling, combative environment. A day earlier, Vetements had shown its collection at the French National Museum of Natural History on a cast of people who had the knowledge to tap into the dark web. Both of these collections addressed the anarchy of our times in their own ways. Vetements riffed on suburban-loaner uniforms of the late 1990s. Kawakubo borrowed from punk and grunge.
Best in show: Models wore sheer aertex vests and fish net tights, exposed by sartorial chaps or open jackets. There were velvety leggings, tabards encrusted with silver metal jewels, spiky black knuckle dusters worn as trailing body jewellery over felt coats peppered with small holes. Archetypal black tailoring peaked out from underneath heavily textured dresses. A sequin boucle dress was worn with a smart velvet coat. Tailored long jackets were layered with more traditional lengths as if they competed for attention. The models marched purposefully in dramatic make-up, moving to their own beat.
Team work: The longstanding collaboration with Nike continues for the coming season. Models wore customised Air Jordans in black, cuffed with buckle belts and silver rings. They took on an athletic aggression that worked with Kawakubo’s re-punk prophecy. §
