Scene setting: the inside of the Palais des Beaux-Arts was set up like a series of narrow corridors lined in floral wallpaper with beige carpet. The environment replicated what designer Luke Meier called ‘a generic home’ – a place that is both familiar and far away at the same time. At the forefront of the research was the sense of homely comfort and how often it can manifest in different ways for us all.
Mood board: the show opened with a heavy Loden felt shirt cut raw on the edge, giving it a sculptural, elevated quality. The influence of military garments came from the artists Joseph Beuys and Ellsworth Kelly and their time serving in WW II. Beuys used felt as a core material due to experiences in the war. Kelly – whose graphic colourful canvases are a favourite of the Instagram generation – was part of the 23rd Headquarters Special Troops, better known as the Ghost Army, who would impersonate Allied Army battalions to deceive the enemy. Meier translated these ideas into the heavy, rounded volumes on coats; seams are welded and archetypal army garments are translated in light silk organza.
Finishing touches: the clothes were sharp and modern in a way that will please die-hard followers of fashion; floral upholstery motif fabrics were used in tailored topcoats and suiting. Graphic shapes were printed over felt shirting and coats, evoking the message of Kelly onto the medium of Beuys. Postcard prints were used on quilted linings, shirting and technical outerwear. Standout were the lace-up leather boots featuring cutaway uppers, which exposed linings in felt, naturally.
OAMC A/W 2018
OAMC A/W 2018
OAMC A/W 2018
OAMC A/W 2018
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The gayest love story ever told: Jeremy Atherton Lin's memoir is a tribute to homeIn 'Deep House: The Gayest Love Story Ever Told', Jeremy Atherton Lin mixes memoir with a historical deep-dive into marriage equlaity
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This monumental Valentino book is a true Italian fashion epicSpanning oral testimony, sketches and magazine spreads, ‘Valentino: A Grand Italian Epic’ (published by Taschen) charts the career of Valentino Garavani, whose mononymous Roman house would define a vision of Italian glamour
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At the Royal Academy summer show, architecture and art combine as never beforeThe Royal Academy summer show is about to open in London; we toured the iconic annual exhibition and spoke to its curator for architecture, Farshid Moussavi
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
