OAMC A/W 2018
Scene setting: the inside of the Palais des Beaux-Arts was set up like a series of narrow corridors lined in floral wallpaper with beige carpet. The environment replicated what designer Luke Meier called ‘a generic home’ – a place that is both familiar and far away at the same time. At the forefront of the research was the sense of homely comfort and how often it can manifest in different ways for us all.
Mood board: the show opened with a heavy Loden felt shirt cut raw on the edge, giving it a sculptural, elevated quality. The influence of military garments came from the artists Joseph Beuys and Ellsworth Kelly and their time serving in WW II. Beuys used felt as a core material due to experiences in the war. Kelly – whose graphic colourful canvases are a favourite of the Instagram generation – was part of the 23rd Headquarters Special Troops, better known as the Ghost Army, who would impersonate Allied Army battalions to deceive the enemy. Meier translated these ideas into the heavy, rounded volumes on coats; seams are welded and archetypal army garments are translated in light silk organza.
Finishing touches: the clothes were sharp and modern in a way that will please die-hard followers of fashion; floral upholstery motif fabrics were used in tailored topcoats and suiting. Graphic shapes were printed over felt shirting and coats, evoking the message of Kelly onto the medium of Beuys. Postcard prints were used on quilted linings, shirting and technical outerwear. Standout were the lace-up leather boots featuring cutaway uppers, which exposed linings in felt, naturally.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The Macallan Horizon with Bentley Motors is a decadent whisky with a luxurious twist
The Macallan and Bentley Motors release ‘The Macallan Horizon’, a single malt whisky with a 180-degree twisted presentation
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Ruby Dickson’s Kim Kardashian paintings explore celebrity culture in London
Ruby Dickson’s ‘Maybe my fairy-tale has a different ending than I dreamed it would. But that’s OK’ is exhibiting at Nicoletti gallery, London
By Sam Moore Published
-
Mayfair’s Murano offers beautiful design and incisively cooked food
Angela Hartnett’s Murano celebrates 15 years of Italian supremacy in London with a fresh look by Fabled Studio
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated