Lanvin A/W 2018
Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver has been in charge of menswear since 2006 and his confidence is palpable. It is there in his clothes. He consistently applies a technical lens to tailoring; his propositions err on the right side of wild. Autumn/winter 2018 felt directional but realistic – new and old in the same breath.
Best in show: What is the fate of suiting if the generation queuing up outside Supreme on a Thursday lusts after elasticated waist joggers and statement hoodies? Tailoring needs a tweak. Prada showed suits pressed with dye to create a graphic trompe l’œil effect; Thom Browne added down linings to classic grey marl blazers. At Dior Homme, the iconic Bar Jacket was nipped into nineties sportswear proportions. Ossendrjiver spent the season thinking about the legacy of archetypal men’s dress. For A/W18, the suit was front and centre. The most classic English textiles were thrown into a new conversation; suits had narrow waists and strict ironed in pleats. Stripes and checks clashed and matched.
Sound bite: Classic lines from bespoke tailoring were reconfigured. A pinstripe suit jacket had pockets peeled from a classic duffle coat. Trousers were in smart wool with a combat pant attitude with cotton inlay, gusseted pocket and velcro. Giant ski jackets had their sleeves hacked off – jumpers were draped and worn with wide sleeve-shaped scarves. ‘What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric. I wanted to deconstruct this idea, using layering,’ Ossendrjiver said. ‘For me, these combinations make a modern suit. I wanted to create a smokescreen.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The wait is over: Matthieu Blazy is Chanel’s new creative director
Matthieu Blazy has been appointed as the new artistic director at Chanel, after a critically lauded and commercially successful tenure as creative director of Bottega Veneta
By Jack Moss Published
-
Alaïa’s secret new London café and bookstore is inspired by the art of hosting
Housed on the third floor of Alaïa’s London flagship, the intimate space – inspired by Azzedine Alaïa’s famed hospitality – includes a Violet Cakes bakery and a bookstore by Claire de Rouen
By Jack Moss Published
-
Is it really possible to stage a Shakespeare play inside the game Grand Theft Auto?
Grand Theft Hamlet, a documentary debut written and directed by Pinny Grylls and Sam Crane, is about two out-of-work actors attempting to mount a full production of William Shakespeare’s Hamlet, inside the violent world of Grand Theft Auto, shot entirely in game
By Billie Walker Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated