Mood board: research for A/W 2018 focused on texture that was luxurious but understated. Mr Armani is really making the case for velvet. At Emporio it was in plaid and cut into easy double-breasted blazers – here it had more laissez-faire lustre. The fabric might have had stuffy, regal connotations, yet whilst Dolce & Gabanna create material machination of the millennial kind, Armani gave us lush double-breasted suits in steel grey worn with louche, tailored track pants. It was a comfy-couture attitude. 

Best in show: Armani’s world is replete with natural, warm hues from rich navy to charcoal grey and deep Bordeaux. A/W 2018 features a rainbow of navy across diamond quilted bomber jackets, long frock coats and oversize wool parkers with printed lining. Burn the black, but don’t banish the blue. 

Best in show: standout were the suits. The tailoring silhouette for the season was narrower as eight-button double-breasted jackets had peak lapels cut to emphasise waist and shoulders. The mood was tactile, tonal and tacit. A/W 2018 is about the tension between action and elegance; men who have pride but are soft to the touch.