Giorgio Armani A/W 2018

Giorgio Armani Menswear collection A/W 2018

Giorgio Armani A/W 2018. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: research for A/W 2018 focused on texture that was luxurious but understated. Mr Armani is really making the case for velvet. At Emporio it was in plaid and cut into easy double-breasted blazers – here it had more laissez-faire lustre. The fabric might have had stuffy, regal connotations, yet whilst Dolce & Gabanna create material machination of the millennial kind, Armani gave us lush double-breasted suits in steel grey worn with louche, tailored track pants. It was a comfy-couture attitude.

Best in show: Armani’s world is replete with natural, warm hues from rich navy to charcoal grey and deep Bordeaux. A/W 2018 features a rainbow of navy across diamond quilted bomber jackets, long frock coats and oversize wool parkers with printed lining. Burn the black, but don’t banish the blue.

Best in show: standout were the suits. The tailoring silhouette for the season was narrower as eight-button double-breasted jackets had peak lapels cut to emphasise waist and shoulders. The mood was tactile, tonal and tacit. A/W 2018 is about the tension between action and elegance; men who have pride but are soft to the touch.

INFORMATION

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

TOPICS

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.