Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2018
Team work: For a number of seasons now, the label has ushered in millennials with open arms. Its Instagrammer casting throws a curveball amid the circuit of shows – gleeful, giddy guys are invited to Milan, dressed and thrown into the limelight for 120 seconds as most of the seated guests are left wondering who each of them might be. The 100 or so looks that made up the A/W 2018 show were modelled, once more, by an influx of influencers: musicians, sportsmen, models and the sons of famous actors.
Mood board: the clothes are rarely there to make a clear case for a directional, seasonal look. Christian Combs, Austin Mahone and Cameron Dallas opened the show entitled 'King’s Angels', wearing lavish gold-brocade tailcoats with slim navy trousers, velvet slippers and embellished socks. Together they embody a new vision of royalty – power wielded via iPhone. Dolce & Gabbana is consistently, wickedly lavish, bold and jubilant: the rib of bomber jackets read ‘DG Royals’ and helpful hashtags were emblazoned across outerwear. For the next few weeks at least, its 15.5 million Instagram followers will be longing for the cherub tapestry tailoring, jewel encrusted lapels and psychedelic patchwork coats that were on show.
Best in show: standout were the myriad velvet slippers, worn with matching crown-motif embellished white socks. The look was part Versailles and part pop King Michael Jackson. Closing the show was the Colombian performer Maluma who sang two lively songs, gambolling in a gold sequin dinner suit; it was a fitting end to the jamboree.
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London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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