JW Anderson A/W 2016
Mood board: If there’s one man on the British fashion scene who can be relied upon to keep the trend treadmill turning its surely Jonathan Anderson. The blurred gender divide – that’s moved well beyond the fashion industry – had its sartorial beginnings on Anderson’s LC:M catwalk and for A/W 2016 he continued to keep us guessing… Was this collection’s re-occurring snail motif a nod to the industry’s maddening pace or nostalgically mined from Eighties kids TV show The Magic Roundabout? Either way the glow-in-the-dark escargot left a Love Parade trail of trippy eccentricity, pounded home by Michel Gaubert’s hardcore techno soundtrack.
Best in show: Practically speaking there was a strong focus on knitwear for A/W 2016 starting with Anderson’s rib knitted pants, which were laced at the ankle where in season’s past they’ve been flared, and continued with long-line grandpa cardigan coats that were tactfully dishevelled. The show’s slow-and-steady snail motif also made a (fun) run for some stellar outerwear pieces – from his perforated square stamped leather coat to a fluffy white fur bomber. But a shout-out should similarly go to his grey shell suits that featured cloud shaped pouch pockets (another LSD motif?!), for which the zippers must have given his machinists hell.
Finishing touches: Anderson isn’t afraid of man jewels and each of his alabaster models sported Perspex studded collars and metal headbands, while down below it was all about two tone lace-up leather boxing boots for life on the go.