Mood board: Though John Galliano showed his first Artisanal collection for Maison Margiela in London last week, it was mere chance that A/W’s menswear outing should lean towards the sensibilities of the British capital too. The house however confirmed he had no hand in the collection, which retained the eclectic and sartorial alley cat spirit of spring, with a heady dose of nostalgic colour thrown in (or on). Whilst a skew of full tailoring looks could have fallen from Patrick Bateman’s clinical wardrobe, artsy inflections began to creep across coats and gilets in jacquard stripes and smudgy marbling, with zingy Lurex knits and a tinsel bomber flashing with a perverted sense of psychedelia.
Best in show: It’s always a welcome distraction when Artisanal pieces find their way into the menswear show, amping up Margiela’s subverted ‘craft’ aspect. Here, they translated as a pair of shell-like waistcoats dripping and smeared like a painter’s palette, and a paler canvas coat whose oily blue and green colours extended down the model’s fingers.
Finishing touches: Margiela menswear is rarely an accessories tour-de-force, however the team has always had a way with a weird shoe. This season a slim topstitched boot that contoured up the instep was rendered in a melee of textures and tones – from red lizard to a particularly fetching mismatched pair in a woven zigzag cloth.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
A striking new cinema glows inside Madrid’s Reina Sofia MuseumBarcelona-based studio Bach reimagines a historic auditorium as a crimson-and-blue dreamscape
-
How an Austin home went from 'Texan Tuscan' to a lush, layered escape inspired by the AlhambraThe intellectually curious owners of this Texas home commissioned an eclectic interior – a true ‘cabinet of curiosities’ layered with trinkets and curios
-
Should your home have a patron goddess? This dramatic Minneapolis apartment doesInspired by the Celtic deity Brigid, interior designer Victoria Sass infused this Twin Cities aerie with flame-licked themes
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
