Editor’s picks from Milan Fashion Week A/W 2015: womenswear collections
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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is returning to its shiny glory thanks to the help of Prada and Versace who are funding its restoration. Works will be done in time for Milan's expo in May
Charlotte Olympia: Peering into the world of mid-century interiors, heels came in the style of table legs, leathers were printed like wallpaper, while framed portrait clutches took inspiration for the Dutch 'Fauve' painter Kees Van Dongen
Giorgio Armani: Mr Amani debuted his new Le Sac 11 bag with an installation by architect Vincenzo de Cotiis at Milan's Antonia boutique
Arthur Arbesser: Vienna born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser continues to dazzle with his unusual presentations in Milan. This season the LVMH prize nominated designer imported everything from his native Austria, including the Bosendorfer Imperial piano, which played Arbesser's favourite classic piece by Schubert, to the vintage chairs by Hoffmann, Thonet and Wagner on which the models' sat, along with the fabrics he used for his sleek minimal designs
Tod's: The leather goods brand presented David Bailey’s 'Stardust' inside Milan's Padiglione d'Arte Contemporanea, showcasing a collection of more then 300 photographs including Salvador Dali, Andy Warhol and David Bowie all shot by the iconic lensman
7 For All Mankind: The denim giant teamed up with Giambattista Valli to fashion a contemporary capsule collection that was launched at 10 Corso Como and is now available globally through the denim brand’s points of sale. ‘Denim fascinates me, as I am naturally drawn to exploring new grounds,’ explained Valli. ‘In this respect, 7 For All Mankind is an excellence, so pairing with them came as a natural choice. I used denim as a canvas onto which to project my vision. I worked on both shapes and fabrics, delivering jeans with a strong identity, quite unique for cut and treatment’
Valextra: The latest graphic offering from the Milanese bag maker
Calvin Klein Jeans: The diffusion brand toughen up its act for A/W with plenty of black leather, ripped denim and utility shapes
Alberto Guardiani: We encountered a mirrored installation of evening bag treasures at Alberto Guardiani
Paula Cademartori: The accessory designer’s new Milan HQ is a riot of colour and modernist design
Paula Cademartori: Her winter collection’s clutch bags possessed the same clash of woven colours, cut-outs and textures
Paula Cademartori: Also new this season was her push into shoes with these lace-up numbers
Kiton: The brand transformed three rooms of its Via Pontaccio space into a mise-en-scène for its burgeoning womenswear line. Mohair checks and cashmere suiting cosied right up with the velvet couches
Fendi: The Peekaboo squares up for A/W with an arty graphic gradient
Fendi: Ice and fur teamed up for Fendi’s winter footwear faire
Fendi: Even the house's pumps were fitted with furry tufts
Pomellato: Milan-based jeweller Pomellato threw a party in honor of Salma Hayek, the brand's new face, at iconic fashion store 10 Corso Como. A photographic exhibit of her new advertising images were followed by a seated candlelight dinner for 130
Bally: Hollywood heroines also took pride of place on Bally’s A/W mood board
Bally: Next autumn’s satchel bags and sandals take on a similarly Seventies spin
Bally: Splashes of colour hit every corner of Bally's autumn collection including the felt skinned slip-on sneaks
Agnona: Noir architectural tailoring stood tall at Agnona's A/W presentation
Sergio Rossi: Monotone silk piped sandals and buttoned-up pumps stole the limelight at Sergio Rossi
Church’s: The cobbler’s traditional brogue got a metallic leather lift
Gianvito Rossi: Shearling shoes were laced-up with a fineness that only Rossi can deliver
Moncler Gamme Rouge: Outerwear encountered a reptilian rendezvous at Moncler with snake and croc skin digital prints galore
Álvaro González: The Spanish designer let feathers fly to update the house's classic sandal, winter or not…
Álvaro González: The tote bag got an architectural rejig with bucket bag proportions for A/W
Bulgari: The jewellery house’s boxy satchel bag was one of our favourites of the week
Woolrich: We checked into Woolrich’s Milan showcase that united urban causal with the rural outdoors
Jimmy Choo: Leopard and teal leather were suspended mid-air at Jimmy Choo
Furla: The launch of Furla's first footwear collection resulted in a big party and a smashing accessories explosion installation
FRS: Francesca Ruffini, wife of Moncler chairman Remo Ruffini, debuted her first clothing line this season at her home in Milan. Entitled FRS (For Restless Sleepers) the collection is centered around silk printed pajamas and sleep accessories
Maurizio Pecoraro: Italian designer Maurizio Pecoraro is now deservingly regaining traction in Milan. We especially liked his technicolour Mongolian fur and shaggy knitwear patch pieces for A/W
Ports 1961: The mood board of the Canadian brand's new creative director Natasa Cagalj
Santoni: Fur flew for Santoni's sandal offering...
Santoni: ...before its leather boots were laced from the block heel upwards
Bertoni: This season's bags were fashioned out of leather, but looked like wood
Elena Ghisellini: The ex-Givenchy accessories designer has married fetish punk elements and graphic urban detailing for her A/W collection fittingy titled 'Contemporary Contrasts'
Andrea Incontri: Milan-based Andrea Incontri designs all of his prints for his exclusive fabrics himself. This season's theme? 1930s acrobats
Ca & Lou: Founders Carolina Neri and Bérengère Lux collaborated with New York artist Bruno Grizzo on an intriguing Milan presentation in which their jewellery was hung from original artwork
Vladimiro Gioia: The furrier continues to be Milan's go-to man for impeccably mad, fantasy-drawn furs
Stephan Janson: The Frenchman showed his winter collection as a salon-style presentation within his Milan atelier along with strawberry tree wood furniture made by children in northern Morocco
Fay: We loved the chandelier situation at Milan's Società del Giardino - the glowing site of Fay's strong A/W fashion show
Fratelli Rossetti: The Italian brand's dramatic footwear presentation lit up the interiors of Milan's Palazzo Visconti
Brunello Cucinelli: Raccoon coats and cashmere sweatpants will be keeping the Brunello Cucinelli woman warm next winter
Casadei: A fascination with the 1970s produced a snazzy pair of mink and fox intarsia Moon stiletto boots
Just Cavalli: The brand is riding the patchwork wave in Milan, serving up a punchy graphic iteration of the new autumn trend. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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