Catwalk tour: the top men's fashion week venues from the A/W 2014 season

Showing the catwalk and lining the floor were hand-painted swirls based on satellite images of Machu Picchu, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines

Louis Vuitton: Kim Jones drew inpiration from his travels to South America for his A/W 2014 Louis Vuitton collection, which were also the starting point for his set inside the Serres du Parc André Citroën. Backing the catwalk and lining the floor were hand-painted swirls based on satellite images of Machu Picchu, the Atacama Desert and the Nazca Lines

(Image credit: TBC)

By Rosa Bertoli

last updated 7 October 2022

neon basketball court on the Halle Freyssinet's concrete floor with wooden benches arranged around a circular schoolyard fence — **Givenchy:** To set up Riccardo Tisci's Bauhaus and basketball-inspired collection for GIvenchy, the designer began the sporting proceedings by drawing a neon basketball court on the Halle Freyssinet's concrete floor. Wooden benches were arranged around a circular schoolyard fence to enclose the high-octane setting

**Berluti:** The Parisian houses' catwalk theme, devised by events company Bureau Betak, literally knocked on wood. Guests entered the Garage Vaugirard show space through a sculptural installation of multi-coloured shoe lasts perched on wooden spikes

Timber clad room featuring benches and doorways — **Berluti:** They ended up in a timber-clad room, seated on simple wooden blocks and benches

**Fendi:** At Silvia Fendi's show, her boys marched onto a runway fashioned from what the Roman fashion house does best: fur. In a celebration of the material, the designer stretched out a carpet of soft grey goat fur, which only served to enhance the luxurious textures of the collection

construction style runway showing a roof with scaffolding and small steps — **Prada:** Miuccia Prada turned to Germany's cultural avant-garde for her A/W 2014 presentation, and in particular choreographer Pina Bausch, artist Joseph Beuys, and director Rainer Werner Fassbinder. Long-time collaborator AMO began by covering the Via Fogazzaro show space entirely in felt, echoing the work of Beuys

**Prada**: Designed as 'an experimental and informal stage for performance' in the vein of Pina Bausch, the set was enclosed in metallic mesh scaffolding, with all surfaces covered in the textile material and dramatically lit to enhance the geometric design of its elements. The collection, meanwhile, took cues from the 1972 Fassbinder film *The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant*

a cinematic suburban neighbourhood, featuring small houses and lit lamp posts — **Kenzo**: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim once again brought a piece of their American homeland to Paris for their Kenzo outing. The set depicted a cinematic suburban neighbourhood, with models walking onto a quiet street flanked by small houses and lit lamp posts

The 'Salle Ronde' outfitted with serene projections of cherry blossoms under a blue sky background, with paper and wood walls replicating the interiors of a traditional Japanese house — **Brioni:** Brendan Mullane's Japanese A/W influences came from a trip that Brioni founder Gaetano Savini took to the Far East in the 1960s. The collection was presented on a round catwalk inside Milan's Museo della Permanente conceived by Villa Eugenie. The 'Salle Ronde' was then outfitted with serene projections of cherry blossoms under a blue sky background, with paper and wood walls replicating the interiors of a traditional Japanese house

**Canali:** The latest Canali collection was presented in a dimly-lit space, with rows of purple benches lining the catwalk, which came topped by a grand piano. Once guests were seated, Italian pianist and composer Ludovico Einaudi took to the stage to perform

The set was fitted-out as a three-floor psychiatric prison, with an old-school gym included. — **DSquared2:** A bleak 'Caten Penitentiary' was the backdrop of the twin's latest Milan show. The set was fitted-out as a three-floor psychiatric prison, with an old-school gym included, and staged as a 'day-in-the-life-of' look into the world of correctional institutions, complete with prisoners, guards, psychiatrists and lawyers roaming within

**Roberto Cavalli:** The flamboyant designer staged his A/W show in the halls of Milan's Palazzo Serbelloni. Here, local architect Barbara Ghidoni conceived an imaginary artist's studio, with models walking through oversized sculptures painted in bright colours

Umbria show space featuring dramatic lighting — **Calvin Klein Collection:** This season the American house's Via Umbria show space was kept simple, with dramatic lighting amplifying Italo Zucchelli's monochromatic vision

**Cerruti:** Aldo Maria Camillo enlisted Parisian light master Thierry Dreyfus to create the set for his latest Cerruti outing. Inside Espace Vendôme, models walked through a metallic staircase painted bright red, in stark contrast to the simple industrial feel of the location

*Photography: Mathias Wendzinski*

The Gucci venue featured a black parquet catwalk and black velvet seats — **Gucci:** The Gucci show space got a little update this season. Dressed up in darker hues, the venue featured a black parquet catwalk and black velvet seats to match Frida Giannini's moodier sensuality

Modern lines as the backdrop and minimal lights in the space for models — **Maison Martin Margiela:** Espace Oscar Niemeyer was the backdrop to the latest Maison Martin Margiela show in Paris, its modern lines offsetting the rough textures of the clothes

**Maison Martin Margiela:** The show took place in the basement of the 1960s building, with its half-buried dome's silhouette reflected by mirrored panels and the sage-green carpets left exposed

grey inclined catwalk that wrapped around the seating benches, and subdued lighting — **Jil Sander:** Eschewing the customary pure white of the past, Thierry Dreyfus created a more contrasting design for Jil Sander's latest menswear outing. The set had a darker atmosphere, which was enhanced by the grey inclined catwalk that wrapped around the seating benches, and the subdued lighting that created a more moody effect

**Kris Van Assche:** This season the designer mixed traditional motifs and textures with John Baldessari-inspired prints. To enhance the rich garments, the set was a minimal affair, with a wide white catwalk illuminated by a bright set of spotlights running overhead

A set over 10 rooms that recreated the ambience of an English club house, with panels mimicking wooden bookshelves in warm colours — **Moncler:** The Moncler show took place in a trompe l'oeil library in the large via Tortona showspace. Inspired by the aesthetics of golf in his collection, Thom Browne designed the set over 10 rooms that recreated the ambience of an English club house, with panels mimicking wooden bookshelves in warm colours

sculptures above the catwalk, bearing the American flag — **Raf Simons:** The designer paired up with artist Sterling Ruby for his A/W collection, with the show's set presenting a tribute to the American guest. Simons' models walked under the artist's sculptures from his 'Soft Work' series, which hung above the catwalk, bearing the American flag

**Dior Homme:** Kris Van Assche's sophisticated Dior Homme collection was shown in a room scented by lillies that were placed on guests' seats before they arrived. Models walked on a floating geometric parquet, laid over a glowing blue floor

*Photography: Adrien Dirand*

colonnade as the set for the show — **Neil Barrett:** Milan-based designer Neil Barrett chose the Palazzo del Senato's stone 'porches' to present his collection, using the colonnade as the set for his show

**Saint Laurent:** Hedi Slimane's lighting arrangements never fail to amaze and this season's set up at the L'Hôtel national des Invalides didn't disappoint. Modular blocks moved down the wide catwalk in a geometric installation of giant flickering lights

**Paul Smith:** The 19th century dome of La Bourse de Commerce was the setting for Paul Smith's Parisian show. Models walked under the venue's beautifully lit frescoes on a catwalk of Persian carpets arranged in a circle on the decorated marble floor

**Salvatore Ferragamo:** The set at Salvatore Ferragamo was simple and modern. Models descended from a wooden staircase onto a catwalk with a backdrop of timber panels that were back-lit, creating a three-dimensional effect. The pure lines of the set and the unobtrusive design were a nod to Massimiliano Giornetti's neat, architectural tailoring

**Versace:** A large sculptural arch enlightened the sleek, all-black Versace show space in Milan. The piece was adorned with parts of cars and motorbikes - including flashing lights and metallic wheel rims - referencing the collection, which featured similar elements studded onto leather

black and white graphic elements, with matching neon tube lighting, referencing the stripes of the Adidas logo

Y-3: The catwalk at Y-3 was enlivened with black and white graphic elements, with matching neon tube lighting, referencing the stripes of the Adidas logo and the collection's comic inspiration

(Image credit: Mathieu Ridelle for Villa Eugenie)

**Z Zegna:** A peaceful setting greeted guests of Z Zegna's A/W show, with the catwalk taking centre stage as a white lacquered box, lit by an oversized hanging screen

(welcome to the palace of discovery) was spelt out in black stencilled letters on the walls of the Grand Palais' stables, The cavernous space featured rough elements such as steel structures and crumbling walls. — **Dries Van Noten**: 'Bienvenue au Palais de la Découverte' (welcome to the palace of discovery) was spelt out in black stencilled letters on the walls of the Grand Palais' stables, which hosted Dries Van Noten's latest menswear show. The cavernous space featured rough elements such as steel structures and crumbling walls, enhancing the designer's bold palette

*Photography: Mathieu Ridelle for Villa Eugenie*

Shows the architectural elements of the Parisian school's hall which were left bare, and the floor mosaics became the catwalk. — **Lanvin**: Lucas Ossendrijver chose the École nationale supérieure des Beaux-Arts to present his new Lanvin collection once again. The architectural elements of the Parisian school's hall were left bare, and the floor mosaics became the catwalk. The superb lighting arrangement by Villa Eugenie enhanced the show's dramatic setting

**Thom Browne:** The designer took his guests to a moody forest for his latest show, creating a monochromatic woodland scene clad in assorted men's tailoring fabrics in the centre of his grey catwalk. The woodland is a nod to the leaf embroidery motif used in the collection

TOPICS

Fashion week show venues

Rosa Bertoli was born in Udine, Italy, and now lives in London. Since 2014, she has been the Design Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees design content for the print and online editions, as well as special editorial projects. Through her role at Wallpaper*, she has written extensively about all areas of design. Rosa has been speaker and moderator for various design talks and conferences including London Craft Week, Maison & Objet, The Italian Cultural Institute (London), Clippings, Zaha Hadid Design, Kartell and Frieze Art Fair. Rosa has been on judging panels for the Chart Architecture Award, the Dutch Design Awards and the DesignGuild Marks. She has written for numerous English and Italian language publications, and worked as a content and communication consultant for fashion and design brands.