There are some people who would describe their current style as slovenly. If you are one of those adherents, then we suggest you now step away from those slouch-inducing sweatpants and oversized sweaters. Your aspiration for spring should be sprezzatura, an Italianate nonchalance most effectively achieved through investment in appearance-uplifting, lightweight suiting.
Men’s suits for spring: the post-pandemic transition piece
Jacket, part of a suit, £3,720, by Brunello Cucinelli
Think of the springtime suit as a post-pandemic transition piece, sitting serendipitously between the sportswear silhouettes of your lockdown wardrobe, and the stiff, starch-filled tailoring of your former office-bound existence. Look to subtly oversized proportions that have a laidback lilt, easy unlined silhouettes and fabrics that welcome the warmer weather.
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As we ease gently back into the outdoors, it’s only natural to feel the pull of organic tones, such as chestnut, honey and walnut. At Ermenegildo Zegna, artistic director Alessandro Sartori has looked to the hues of the label’s Oasi Zegna nature reserve, in the Biella Alps in northern Italy, for inspiration, while at Jil Sander, softer silhouettes have been imagined in slate, caramel and sky blue.
For those keen to emerge from lockdown with a more exuberant energy, we recommend offsetting that spirit with an insouciant stance, hands shrugged into loose trouser pockets. Turn your attention to Bottega Veneta’s bouclé suiting, which is striking in its textural fabrication. There’s another winning adjective for your new season style glossary.
Jacket, £1,490; trousers, £590, both by Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier
Jacket, £2,420, by Loro Piana ‘Black, White & Sun Yellow Kinetic Sculpture’, £9,000, by Daniel Reynolds, from The New Craftsmen
Jacket, £2,750; trousers, £1,280, both by Bottega Veneta. Boots, £945, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Blue Glass Five Piece Mobile II’, £5,400, by Daniel Reynolds, from The New Craftsmen
INFORMATION
This article appears in the May 2021 issue Wallpaper*, available to download
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