Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior: ‘I‘m immensely proud of this chapter’

Days after a blockbuster Cruise show in Rome – which saw the Italian designer return to her home city to show in the grounds of the 18th-century Villa Albani Torlonia – it has been announced this morning that Maria Grazia Chiuri is set to exit Dior after a 9-year tenure as creative director of the house’s womenswear and couture lines. She is the first woman designer to have led the Parisian house.

‘After nine years, I am leaving Dior, delighted to have been given this extraordinary opportunity,’ she said in a statement. ‘I would like to thank Monsieur Arnault [CEO of LVMH] for placing his trust in me and Delphine [Arnault] for her support. I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the Ateliers.

Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior

‘Their talent and expertise allowed me to realise my vision of committed women’s fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists,’ she continued. ‘Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.’

Indeed, Chiuri’s tenure was defined by a distinctly feminist approach. Her first collection memorably included a T-shirt reading ‘We Should All Be Feminists’, taken from the 2014 essay by Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Over the next nine years, she would collaborate with numerous women artists on the scenography for her runway shows; these included Judy Chicago, Mickalene Thomas and Eva Jospin, among others.

Her designs, meanwhile, often drew on lesser-known elements of the Dior archive, including creative directors who came after Christian Dior (Marc Bohan was one such influence). Her collections were infused with a mood of romance and ease, oftentimes inspired by myth and fairytale. Embellishment was central, particularly embroidery, partnering with Mumbai’s Chanakya atelier and non-profit School of Craft on several projects, including the show set for her Fall 2023 show in the city, which featured an embroidered work inspired by the Indian toran (it took 300 artisans over 35,000 hours of work to complete).

‘I extend my warmest thanks to Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, since her arrival at Dior, has accomplished tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which allowed her to design highly desirable collections,’ says Delphine Arnault, chairman and CEO of Christian Dior Couture. ‘She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women’s collections.’

As for her replacement, it is widely rumoured that Jonathan Anderson – who was recently confirmed as the creative director of Dior Men, replacing Kim Jones – will also take over the womenswear line, though there has been no announcement from the house. He will show his debut menswear collection this June in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week.