Hedi Slimane’s latest Celine collection is rooted in the house’s 1960s heyday

Hedi Slimane’s Celine A/W 2024 womenswear collection recalls the abbreviated silhouettes of the house’s 1960s heyday, revealed today via a short film that also launches the house’s first-ever cosmetic line, Celine Beauté

Celine A/W 2024 collection featuring Celine Beauty
Celine Women A/W 2024 by Hedi Slimane, which features the first look at Celine Beauté
(Image credit: Courtesy of Celine)

So the story goes, in 1971, Céline Vipiana found herself momentarily stranded on Place de l’Étoile after her car broke down at the busy Paris junction that houses the Arc de Triomphe. It would prove a lucky coincidence for Vipiana, who founded eponymous French fashion house Celine in 1945, the brief diversion making her notice the distinct decorative motif adorning the chain-link fence that loops around the Parisian landmark. A version of the design would soon become the Celine monogram, decorating handbags, buckles and scarves, which were quickly adopted by the city’s bourgeoisie.

Over half a century on, the ’Triomphe’ monogram continues to be an emblem for the house, reintroduced by Hedi Slimane, whose tenure began in 2018 (the French designer says he reimagined the monogram on his first day). Now, his streamlined, modernist version is perhaps best known for appearing on the house’s ‘Triomphe’ bag, which in its various iterations ‘embodies the very essence and values of the couture house’, appearing time and again in Slimane’s collections. 

Hedi Slimane reveals Celine A/W 2024 womenswear collection

Celine runway show A/W 2024

(Image credit: Courtesy of Celine)

Released today (12 March) in a short film directed and conceived by the designer (watch it below), Slimane’s A/W 2024 womenswear collection is titled ‘La Collection de l’Arc de Triomphe’, celebrating the house’s spiritual roots in the monument. Filmed in several of Paris’ landmark art deco interiors – among them Salle Pleyel theatre, Maison de la Chimie conference centre, and Musée Bourdelle and Musée des Arts Décoratifs galleries – alongside flashes of the Arc de Triomphe, the collection also reveals a first glimpse at Celine Beauté, which launches in autumn 2024.

Close up of Celine lipstick

A first look at Celine Beauté

(Image credit: Courtes of Celine)

The launch, which follows the debut of Celine’s Haute Parfumerie collection in 2019, marks the first cosmetic line in the house’s history. Here, models wear one of the 15 shades of the ’Le Rouge Celine’ lipstick range that be available in 2025 (the shade used is ‘La Peau Nue’, which translates to ’naked skin’), while the Celine Beauté line will launch this autumn with a satin lipstick shade ‘Rouge Triomphe’. A sleek, faceted gold case engraved with the ’Triomphe’ monogram continues the much-coveted aesthetic of the house’s Haute Parfumerie collection, which draws inspiration from traditional Parisian apothecaries (a recent bath and body launch from the collection was named by Wallpaper’s beauty and grooming editor as some of the best beauty packaging of 2023).

Celine A/W 2024 runway show

(Image credit: Courtesy of Celine)

The collection itself looks back to the house’s 1960s heyday with a sleek collection of abbreviated skirts, coordinated nipped tailoring and moulded felt hats which recall those by the era’s ‘Space Age’ designers, like André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin (notably, no trousers feature in the collection). Meanwhile, a Parisian insouciance is conjured in chubby faux fur jackets, polka-top blouses and chunky, round-toed Mary Janes. Other looks are an expression of the Celine couture atelier, whether dramatic pussy-bow fastenings, sculptural baby-doll dresses or flourishes of embellishment, from swathes of jewellery-like crystal adornment to plumes of feathers and raised floral appliqué (out of the collection, 20 looks are from the house’s haute couture line). Bags include the ‘Nino’, ‘Terence’ and ‘Garance’ bags, each a riff on the ladylike top-handle handbag and complete with ’Triomphe’ monogram clasp.

Celine A/W 2024 womenswear show

(Image credit: Courtesy of Celine)

The collection is dedicated to the photographer Richard Avedon, with whom Slimane collaborated Dior Homme campaigns during his tenure at the house in the 2000s. ’A friend and mentor’, he describes of the late American photographer, whose humanistic portraiture – which combined formal simplicity with a poetic majesty – no doubt influenced Slimane’s own prolific photographic oeuvre, which runs concurrent to his work in design.

Watch the Hedi Slimane-shot film below


Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.