'Never Again': the life and influence of Judy Blame at the ICA
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- Sign up to our newsletter Newsletter

Judy Blame is a man of many fabulous hats: accessories designer, fashion stylist, celebrity confidante, ahead of the curve underground icon. He was doing 'art direction' before it was a thing, creating the look for Björk's Debut album (1992), and draping Massive Attack in fake Rolexes and Kangols for their Blue Lines era. He's the guy who encouraged Boy George into headgear.
Now, London's ICA (an institute known for championing the radical, unexpected and malapropos side of contemporary art) presents the first major exhibition on the British iconoclastic powerhouse.
'Never Again' is a retrospective of Blame's life and works, including his outlandish, safety-pin tangled jewellery, his found-art photomontages and his mixed-media fashion sculpture. 'Although Judy is primarily recognised for his jewellery, he has been a polymath and an inspiration to artists past, present and hopefully future,' curator Matt Williams tells Wallpaper*. 'His ability to respond to the detritus of the everyday and transform it into an object or an image that touches upon pertinent social and political themes of its time, is a rare talent.' A series of vitrines ('Black Magic', 'Filthy Rich', 'Old Rope') collate this vast and eclectic array of work thematically, organising Blame's colourful creative process into comprehensible tableau.
'The layout for this display could easily be the surface of my desk when I’m working on a number of jobs simultaneously,' Blame writes on the vitrine entitled 'Beautiful Chaos'. 'This is an illustration of my working process and inspirations – from sketchbook to editorial and then through to the final product.'
As well as this intimate look under the surface of Blame's unique aesthetic, 'Never Again' is complemented by a parallel group show in the upstairs gallery. 'Artistic Differences' considers Blame's significance on the wider fashion and jewellery stages, featuring contemporary work from the likes of Mark Lebon, 'infamous night-clubber' Trojan and Juergen Teller. Through his peers, and by seeing Blame's work for the first time thoroughly represented in a gallery setting, a picture begins to emerge of the art-maverick's far-reaching influence, as well as his inspirations, achievements and services to style.
Installation view of the ‘Never Again’ retrospective at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts in 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Left, Cheap Queen Collage, 1994. Right, Fragile Collage, 2008.
Left, Judy Blame.
Left, Royal Mail collages featuring a collection by Hussein Chalayan, 1992. Right, camouflage jewellery by Judy Blame
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
Installation view, ‘Never Again’, ICA 2016.
INFORMATION
’Judy Blame: Never Again’ and ’Artistic Differences’ are on view until 4 September. For more information, visit the ICA website (opens in new tab)
ADDRESS
ICA
The Mall
London, SW1Y 5AH
VIEW GOOGLE MAPS (opens in new tab)
Elly Parsons is the Digital Editor of Wallpaper*, where she oversees Wallpaper.com and its social platforms. She has been with the brand since 2015 in various roles, spending time as digital writer – specialising in art, technology and contemporary culture – and as deputy digital editor. She was shortlisted for a PPA Award in 2017, has written extensively for many publications, and has contributed to three books. She is a guest lecturer in digital journalism at Goldsmiths University, London, where she also holds a masters degree in creative writing. Now, her main areas of expertise include content strategy, audience engagement, and social media.
-
Wadi AlFann, AlUla’s new land art destination, is stirring creativity in the desert
Wadi AlFann – Saudi Arabia’s Valley of the Arts – hints at the scale of its ambition with an event in the desert for curators, artists and cultural leaders ahead of the completion of its site and first five artworks
By Simon Mills • Published
-
Colin King ‘Arranging Things’ book is an essential read for interior design inspiration and wisdom
Colin King ‘Arranging Things’, a new book published by Rizzoli, is filled with exquisite interiors and useful advice on finding beauty in everyday environments
By Pei-Ru Keh • Published
-
Watches and Wonders behind the scenes: building the world’s biggest watch fair
Discover how Watches and Wonders 2023, the year’s biggest horological event, is designed and built
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Ai Weiwei's largest-ever Lego artwork revealed at London’s Design Museum
At London’s Design Museum, Ai Weiwei has unveiled Water Lilies #1, a new Lego recreation of Claude Monet’s iconic painting. We explore the vast new work ahead of the Chinese artist’s major show at the museum, opening on 7 April 2023
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith • Published
-
Lynda Benglis’ seductive hall of mirrors and juicy neon eggs in London
American artist Lynda Benglis subverts expectations with new bronze sculptures and otherworldly coloured eggs in a new solo show at Thomas Dane Gallery, London
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith • Published
-
London show celebrates the male physique in photography, from muscle hunks to scruffy punks
‘A Hard Man is Good to Find!’ – newly open at London’s Photographers’ Gallery – is a delectable survey of queer photographs of the male body created in London between the 1930s and early 1990s
By Benoit Loiseau • Published
-
The best London art exhibitions: a guide for March 2023
Your guide to the best London art exhibitions, and those around the UK in March 2023, as chosen by the Wallpaper* arts desk
By Harriet Lloyd Smith • Published
-
Eric van Hove brings Morocco to Mayfair in a sculpture exhibition at Connolly
At Connolly in London’s Mayfair, Eric van Hove’s ‘Fenduq’ sees British poise collide with the raw grace of Moroccan creativity
By Flora Vesterberg • Published
-
Inside Shoreditch Arts Club: east London’s new hub for cultural and culinary delights
Shoreditch Arts Club, opening on 7 March, is a new private members' club set within the landmark Tea Building that aims to evoke ‘the curiosity of an avid art collector’s home’
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith • Published
-
Mike Nelson at Hayward Gallery: a dystopian thriller that’s impossible to forget
We review Mike Nelson’s epic survey show ‘Extinction Beckons’ at Hayward Gallery, London, a monumental exhibition filled with dark humour, unsettling encounters, and modernist dreams lost to capitalism
By Harriet Lloyd-Smith • Published
-
Olgaç Bozalp’s journey through forced migration, longing and childhood nostalgia
Photographer Olgaç Bozalp’s powerful series ‘Home, Leaving One For Another’ is now on view at 10 14 Gallery, London
By Saskia Koopman • Published