Celtic legend meets Japanese Noh theatre in dance directed by Hiroshi Sugimoto
The artist and photographer joined forces with fashion designer Rick Owens, choreographer Alessio Silvestrin and electronic composer Ryoji Ikeda for his first production at the Paris Opera

Hiroshi Sugimoto, the renowned Japanese artist, has directed a dance production of At the Hawk’s Well for the Opéra National de Paris, adding to his already diverse repertoire. The 40-minute piece is a new interpretation of a one-act play, written by the Irish poet and playwright William Butler Yeats almost a century ago.
Yeats’ original, in which immortal water is the subject, blended Celtic esotericism with the six-century-old Japanese tradition of Noh theatre and its parallels to shamanic rituals. Although Sugimoto wasn’t particularly familiar with the world of dance, the idea of reinterpreting Yeats appealed immediately when he was approached by Aurélie Dupont, dance director of Opéra National de Paris.
Within the quintessentially European surrounds of the Ópera Garnier, the distinctively Japanese hair and make-up in Sugimoto’s production immediately stands out. ‘They are clearly a Noh reference. And it works! I myself am amazed,’ reflected Sugimoto right after the general rehearsal. The costume design, meanwhile was entrusted to Rick Owens, who Sugimoto was quick to praise. ‘Rick attended a Noh presentation and looked through original costume sketches for the first presentation of At the Hawk’s Well in 1916.
The great thing is that in spite of this research, his design was not literally influenced by Noh costume, but a reconsidered version.’ Owens has dressed the character of the old man in silver metallic briefs and a humongous origami-like coat. Cuchulain, a young hero from Celtic mythology, wears a version in gold. A third key figure, the Hawk-Woman (or ‘Guardian of the well’), appears in a red bodysuit with geometrically placed holes, paired with a metallic red bolero, exaggerated in form and proportion.
The performance is directed by the Japan-based Italian choreographer Alessio Silvestrin, a former collaborator of William Forsythe. It marries contemporary dance and Noh movement, characterised by nodding, posing and sometimes stomping. Throughout the show, what the audience hears is not necessarily ‘danceable’ music but instead, abstracted electronic sound composed by Japanese artist Ryoji Ikeda.
‘The awakening gong-like sound in the very last scene is actually a Tsuzumi (a traditional Japanese percussion instrument) tapped by a wooden fan, which Ikeda recorded and digitalised. This is more than a sound effect, but an expression of ma. It’s excellent,’ Sugimoto enthused. (Ma can be roughly translated as interval, referring to the Japanese aesthetic ideology of subtle timing that breaks silence.)
Conceived by Sugimoto himself, the stage design is all about lighting and offers the perfect showcase for acclaimed photographic work. In the backdrop, a slightly curved line symbolises the horizon, a view from the isolated island where the well is situated. Meanwhile, bright red or blue round shapes emerge to evoke the burning sun or the infinite sea.
The only prop is a wooden platform set in the middle of the stage, where Noh master Kisho Umewaka appears for the finale. ‘The show does include real Noh elements, but it’s not the narrative; it’s far too different from its authentic form. Noh might make you doze off. This show doesn’t!’ laughed Sugimoto.
Ludmila Pagliero.
Hugo Marchand.
INFORMATION
At The Hawk’s Well, until 15 October, Opéra national de Paris. operadeparis.fr
ADDRESS
Palais Garnier
Place de l’Opéra
75009 Paris
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Minako Norimatsu is a Japanese journalist and consultant based in Paris. Extremely curious about everything creative, her field ranges from fashion to art, dance, hospitality and travel. She has interviewed many Japanese fashion designers and artists for Wallpaper*, as well as non-Japanese creatives whose inspirations are drawn from Japan.
-
Beach chic: the all-new Citroën Ami gets an acid-tinged, open-air Buggy variant
Citroën have brought a dose of polychromatic playfulness to their new generation Ami microcar, the cult all-ages electric quadricycle that channels the spirit of the 2CV for the modern age
-
Wallpaper* checks in at Rosewood Miyakojima: ‘Japan, but not as most people know it’
Rosewood Miyakojima offers a smooth balance of intuitive Japanese ‘omotenashi’ fused with Rosewood’s luxury edge
-
Thrilling, demanding, grotesque and theatrical: what to see at Berlin Gallery Weekend
Berlin Gallery Weekend is back for 2025, and with over 50 galleries taking part, there's lots to see
-
Watch dance, music and film collide at a unique event at Abbey Road Studios
In this exclusive film, watch Abbey Road’s first Artist in Residence, Jordan Rakei, collaborate with industry-leading creatives to produce a dance performance in the hallowed Studio One
-
Contemporary artist collective Poush takes over Château La Coste
Members of Poush have created 160 works, set in and around the grounds of Château La Coste – the art, architecture and wine estate in Provence
-
‘David Hockney 25’: inside the artist’s blockbuster Paris show
‘David Hockney 25’ has opened at Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris. Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver took a tour of the colossal, colourful show
-
Jack White's Third Man Records opens a Paris pop-up
Jack White's immaculately-branded record store will set up shop in the 9th arrondissement this weekend
-
‘The Black woman endures a gravity unlike any other’: Pharrell Williams explores diverse interpretations of femininity in Paris
Pharrell Williams returns to Perrotin gallery in Paris with a new group show which serves as an homage to Black women
-
What makes fashion and art such good bedfellows?
There has always been a symbiosis between fashion and the art world. Here, we look at what makes the relationship such a successful one
-
Architecture, sculpture and materials: female Lithuanian artists are celebrated in Nîmes
The Carré d'Art in Nîmes, France, spotlights the work of Aleksandra Kasuba and Marija Olšauskaitė, as part of a nationwide celebration of Lithuanian culture
-
Out of office: what the Wallpaper* editors have been doing this week
Investing in quality knitwear, scouting a very special pair of earrings and dining with strangers are just some of the things keeping the Wallpaper* team occupied this week