Mood board: Pringle may be in its 200th anniversary year, but what Massimo Nicosia showed on his S/S 2016 runway was a fresh snapshot of its future and in doing so he loosened up the house’s heritage hold to great effect. The blurring of organic textures, high-tech fibres, open knit and weave sizes was striking. Although more home spun that anything we’ve seen before, the collection’s earthiness felt like a new day for Pringle.

Best in show: In addition to his expert eye for unpicking textures, Nicosia also has a way with proportion and his long-line, fine transparent tunics layered over larger gauges and vice versa were a lesson in relaxed elegance. His oversized marl knits and coordinating side-split skirts edged with macramé loops, were just as covetable with these loops also proving a print motif for his silk wovens elsewhere.

Sound bite: ‘The collection builds a wardrobe around knitwear innovation, further blurring the lines between crochet, woven and knit,’ said the head designer, while also pointing to the work of contemporary artist Ernesto Neto’s blown-up crochet installations inspired by textures and open stitches.