Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Christopher Kane’s ‘More Joy’ merch collection, featuring pants, socks and eye masks emblazoned with the words ‘Sex’ and ‘Special’ has been a huge hit. It’s a capsule line that emerged from the brand’s A/W 2018 collection, which referenced the 1972 book The Joy of Sex. Kane loves flirting with the naughty and the concept of desire, so it was a natural fit that for A/W 2020 he looked to the biggest temptation of all: the Biblical Fall of Adam and Eve. The shape of a triangle – a symbol for the eye of god – was a focal point, with the show opening with a series of silk triangular cut-out dresses and coats in oddly paired brown and red tones. The trianglular motif recurred throughout the show in the form of seductive splices across shirting, graphic lace dresses, chainmail mini dresses with huge triangular bows, vinyl paneled knitwear and A-line suiting.
Finishing touches: Kane is a master of temptation himself, making things that err on bad taste like neon lace, lashings of rhinestones and gaudy prints utterly desirable. Case in point, the squidgy dye filled plastic embellishments that have become a signature of the brand. For A/W 2020 this meant wet look boots, sandals, dresses and sweeping coats implanted with squidgy globules and clear clutches bulging with glitter filled liquid.
Team work: Apart from the triangle, there were other references to The Fall, from the bold apple red tones of asymmetric knitwear and column dresses to the earthy browns that peppered the collection. Kane also used Adam and Eve, a 1582 painting by Lucas Cranach the Elder as a print in the collection, which was emblazoned across t-shirts and sweaters. We want to take a bite of it all.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Wild sauna, anyone? The ultimate guide to exploring deep heat in the UK outdoors
‘Wild Sauna’, a new book exploring the finest outdoor establishments for the ultimate deep-heat experience in the UK, has hit the shelves; we find out more about the growing trend
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 shows
The Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to know
Designing the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2022: eight important insights to know now
Fashion brands are back with a bang in The Big Smoke. Here’s everything you need to know from London Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
-
Optimism and pragmatism align at London Fashion Week S/S 2021
In a socially-distanced show season different to any other, LFW's designers offered images of hope, escapism and utilitarianism