Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women’s
Mood board: Christopher Kane’s ‘More Joy’ merch collection, featuring pants, socks and eye masks emblazoned with the words ‘Sex’ and ‘Special’ has been a huge hit. It’s a capsule line that emerged from the brand’s A/W 2018 collection, which referenced the 1972 book The Joy of Sex. Kane loves flirting with the naughty and the concept of desire, so it was a natural fit that for A/W 2020 he looked to the biggest temptation of all: the Biblical Fall of Adam and Eve. The shape of a triangle – a symbol for the eye of god – was a focal point, with the show opening with a series of silk triangular cut-out dresses and coats in oddly paired brown and red tones. The trianglular motif recurred throughout the show in the form of seductive splices across shirting, graphic lace dresses, chainmail mini dresses with huge triangular bows, vinyl paneled knitwear and A-line suiting.
Finishing touches: Kane is a master of temptation himself, making things that err on bad taste like neon lace, lashings of rhinestones and gaudy prints utterly desirable. Case in point, the squidgy dye filled plastic embellishments that have become a signature of the brand. For A/W 2020 this meant wet look boots, sandals, dresses and sweeping coats implanted with squidgy globules and clear clutches bulging with glitter filled liquid.
Team work: Apart from the triangle, there were other references to The Fall, from the bold apple red tones of asymmetric knitwear and column dresses to the earthy browns that peppered the collection. Kane also used Adam and Eve, a 1582 painting by Lucas Cranach the Elder as a print in the collection, which was emblazoned across t-shirts and sweaters. We want to take a bite of it all. §