Kenzo S/S 2015
Kenzo had us captured at their spring show before any look walked into their intriguing show space. Working with their trusted set collaborator Etienne Russo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon colonised a Parisian skateboard rink, installing huge screen less video projections amongst the smooth cement hills and setting their models off on a journey into the colossal space. Kenzo's clothes come fast and furiously; and there were a lot of them to digest. The designers presented a whole wardrobe of off-duty and dressed-up clothing that spanned from the simplicity of boxy tops and sweatshirts to more fashion forward jumpsuits and exaggeratedly flared oversized trousers. If there was a theme this season it was volume, as the designers blew air into almost all of their silhouettes. This didn't work on every piece, but it looked fantastic on the pieces cut from sturdier or more compact fabrications such as their three-quarter length black skirts that opened to reveal side slits or their perorated printed tank dresses that draped with volume around the ankles. Our favourite pieces in this show, however, were the broderie anglaise and denim looks - the latter of which showed exactly what a creative twosome can devise for the world's most worn fabrication. In Lim's and Leon's hands, denim came in a soft sky blue and was cut in boxy, unusual shapes, such as kick skirts and tunic style jackets that lent a very fresh touch to jeanswear.
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