Junya Watanabe S/S 2015
The Japanese designers keep the creative flame of Paris burning bright. Junya Watanabe, one of this special group's top stars, stoked the fire even more this season with a wildly imaginative collection based on collaging. Watanabe started with circles, cutting up suede, patent leather and tulle into round spheres and then stitching them all up again to create fascinatingly artistic tunics, dresses, and capes that billowed with back volume. The surfaces later swelled into 3D formations created by rhomboid, square and diamond shapes, and then abruptly deflated into flat prints on leather. These were worn with oversized shorts, or asymmetrical skirts, and paired with platform lace-up oxford shoes with short white socks. With their hair bound into swim caps and their heads squashed into plastic helmets, there was something almost retro space age about this collection. But one can never put a Watanabe collection into such a tight, descriptive box. The pops of acid bright colours created a circus-like flavour, while the models luscious red lips had been taped together as if the designer were declaring that there was no need for this woman to open her mouth; her clothes, after all, could and would do all the talking.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox
JJ Martin
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Eurovision unveils its 2024 stage, designed by Beyoncé's Renaissance Tour creatives
This year's stage design aims to bring the audience into the performance more than ever before.
By Charlotte Gunn Published
-
Ikea meets Japan in this new pattern-filled collection
New Ikea Sötrönn collection by Japanese artist Hiroko Takahashi brings Japan and Scandinavia together in a pattern-filled, joyful range for the home
By Rosa Bertoli Published
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Givenchy A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated