Mood board: The master of hybrid silhouettes, Chitose Abe was preoccupied with how silhouettes can change shape and form when they transition from stationery to in-movement. Exploring masculine and feminine fluidity, what appeared as a rust double-breasted trouser suit transformed into a flowing dress. Abe’s signature shapes – sporty MA1 jackets, spliced pleated skirts and puffer jackets – were presented against prettier, more inherently bourgeois shapes, like satin jackets, lace blouses, riding boots and fur coats, with subversive effect. Festooned with pearl embellishments, her wardrobe had a more feminine, elegant feel, best delivered with a heavy dose of irony.
Finishing touches: Tech accessories have been A/W 2020’s most utilitarian trend. In Paris, Balenciaga and Givenchy presented AirPod-inspired accessories, from cases suspended from necklaces, to iPhone leads used as hair ties. For A/W 2020, Abe gave ear pieces a fine jewellery finesse, creating headphones which clipped around the ear, dangling with lengths of chubby chain.
Team work: Last season, Abe swathed her designs with cartographical map prints. For A/W 2020, she had something more interstellar in mind, collaborating with NASA on a series of cosmic prints, twinkling from sweater dresses, jumpers and an organza bomber jacket, which transformed into a full skirt.
Sacai A/W 2020.
Sacai A/W 2020.
Sacai A/W 2020.
Sacai A/W 2020.
-
Fancy a matcha-beer cocktail? Visit this dashing new LA restaurantCafé 2001 channels the spirit of an American diner with the flow of a European bistro and the artistry of Japanese cuisine
-
Los Angeles businesses regroup after the 2025 firesIn the third instalment of our Rebuilding LA series, we zoom in on Los Angeles businesses and the architecture and social fabric around them within the impacted Los Angeles neighbourhoods
-
New book 'I-IN' brings together Japanese heritage and minimalist architecture at its finestJapanese architecture studio I-IN flaunts its expert command of 21st-century minimalism in a new book by Frame Publishers
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Akris A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
