Mood board: The master of hybrid silhouettes, Chitose Abe was preoccupied with how silhouettes can change shape and form when they transition from stationery to in-movement. Exploring masculine and feminine fluidity, what appeared as a rust double-breasted trouser suit transformed into a flowing dress. Abe’s signature shapes – sporty MA1 jackets, spliced pleated skirts and puffer jackets – were presented against prettier, more inherently bourgeois shapes, like satin jackets, lace blouses, riding boots and fur coats, with subversive effect. Festooned with pearl embellishments, her wardrobe had a more feminine, elegant feel, best delivered with a heavy dose of irony.
Finishing touches: Tech accessories have been A/W 2020’s most utilitarian trend. In Paris, Balenciaga and Givenchy presented AirPod-inspired accessories, from cases suspended from necklaces, to iPhone leads used as hair ties. For A/W 2020, Abe gave ear pieces a fine jewellery finesse, creating headphones which clipped around the ear, dangling with lengths of chubby chain.
Team work: Last season, Abe swathed her designs with cartographical map prints. For A/W 2020, she had something more interstellar in mind, collaborating with NASA on a series of cosmic prints, twinkling from sweater dresses, jumpers and an organza bomber jacket, which transformed into a full skirt. §
