Valentino A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Voluminous couture shapes, neon hues and flounces of taffeta – Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino signatures are often mimicked again and again during fashion week. But for A/W 2020 the designer stripped back his prismatic colour palette, opening Valentino’s show with a series of all black evening wear and tailored pieces – leather bustier dresses, slouchy suiting with a sparkle of sequin, a sheer plunging gown with tulle ruffles. Pierpaolo was preoccupied with the power of uniform, and the possibility of enhancing character by reducing the fashion silhouette. Leather, houndstooth and suiting shapes were borrowed from a stock menswear wardrobe, seductively offset with flashes of vibrant red – seen in a trenchcoat, a wide collared peacoat and a final high neck sequin gown glittering with paillettes.

Finishing touches: Feminine fluidity came in the naturalistic motifs on accessories. For A/W 2020, Valentino introduced bags festooned with 3D petals. These were contrasted with bovver boots (autumn’s most enduring stompy soled shoe – also see Versace, Prada and Issey Miyake), which accompanied both tailored daytime looks and eveningwear.

Best in show: An oversized double-breasted jacket in soft leather was fantastically fluid, while an opening cashmere coat tied with a narrow leather belt was comfort and luxury combined.