By Jack Moss
last updated

Jsen Wintle, chosen by Christopher Bailey at Burberry

Tell us about your rise to prominence on the British scene, it’s been a big few years

Basically we’ve been focusing on building the brand and allowing the collection to evolve. To be honest, the whole process has been dominated by the amount of orders we’ve been getting in. This will be our sixth season and time just goes by so very quickly, we’re really just trying to find our feet in the industry.

You’ve recently teamed up with Marks & Spencer, how did you adapt your designs to suit the brand?

It’s more a process of distilling the essence of the brand and adapting that to the M&S consumer. From a design point of view it really has informed my own collection. It would have been easy to go in with a bullish agenda, but it’s about working developmentally in tandem with the company. M&S have astounding production values, which has really inspired my own way of working.

What is it about menswear that appeals to you? Surely it must not share the same freedoms as womenswear design?

I actually really like the tight boundaries of menswear. There are definite restraints – particularly at the higher end of the market. But there’s also a lot of balance creatively and commercially which is really exciting – it’s about subtlety and evolution as opposed to womenswear, which is a whole different beast. Menswear is a lot more relaxed, whereas womenswear is about meteoric rises, and the inevitable crash that follows.

You have a broad creative pedigree, how have your past projects informed your work in fashion?

All my past pursuits have informed each other. It’s a very difficult question to answer. I’m bringing filmic elements into my next collection, which has obviously been informed by my previous work. My creative development has been very linear, I’ve just journeyed from one field to the other very naturally. As a creative industry, fashion gives you so much scope to work with. There’s much more creative freedom.

Who would you cite as your key fashion world influences?

I can honestly say that I don’t really have any inter-fashion world influences. I don’t feel like a fashion person as such – most of my outer-fashion circle of friends are very creative types. I feel fresher looking out rather than looking in.

Have you trained as a tailor?

I have an encyclopedic knowledge of tailoring, but I’m not a tailor. I shadowed a traditional tailor for a very long time – it’s the backbone of my business.

How would you best describe the British fashion industry?

It’s an industry of extremes. On one side there’s the super high-quality, extremely conservative tailoring, whilst at the bleeding edge of high-design womenswear. Those of us in the middle find it very hard to establish our spot. How do I find my space? I’m somewhere in-between I suppose. I feel a little bit isolated and I suppose that’s why we’ve gravitated towards showing in Paris – although my studio’s here. It’s something I struggle with – we want to show here in Britain but there just isn’t the same interest. It’s a slow process I suppose.

Who would you cite as your biggest inter-industry advocates thus far?

There are an awful lot of generous people who have given me an abundance of financial, creative and mental support of the years. From fashion editors to designers and general philanthropists in and out of the industry, I’ve had an awful lot of support and I’ve been extremely lucky.

A boy is standing.

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Pieces by Harris Elliott and his high fashion advocate, Paul Smith, for the Wallpaper* Show Time shoot

An image of bag.

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H Jacket from H by Harris

An image of red color bag.

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Q1 Skin from H by Harris

An image of hand bag.

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Q4 Tote from H by Harris

An image of hand bag.

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Q3 Rucksack from H by Harris

A woman is standing.

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Mark Fast coupes up with Angela Missoni for the Wallpaper* shoot

A cat walk by a woman.

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

A cat walk by a woman in red color skirt.

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in black color dress.

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

woman in blue color dress.

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Mark Fast, Spring Summer 2010

A man in black and green colored cloths.

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James Long combined with pieces from Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin, for the W*130 shoot

A man is wearing sun glass.

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A man is wearing sun glass.

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A man is having bag.

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A man in black and green color dress.

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A man in black color dress.

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A man is wearing sun glass.

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James Long, Spring Summer 2010

A woman is standing like flying.

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A blouse by Veryta comes combined with pieces from Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent

A woman in simple dress.

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in colorful dress.

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in white and blue color dress.

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in black color dress.

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

A lady is silver color dress.

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Veryta, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in black color dress and having fruits.

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A distinctive, cherry-inspired headpiece from milliner Piers Atkinson coupled with a Pringle of Scotland dress for the Wallpaper* shoot

A woman is coving her face with net.

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Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010

A lady is carrying fruits.

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Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010

A lady is having fruits on head.

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Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010

A lady is having fruit.

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Piers Atkinson, 'Sex on the Brain' Spring Summer 2010

A woman is standing.

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Mary Katrantzou, as chosen by Frida Giannini of Gucci for Wallpaper*

A woman is in black color dress.

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

A woman is in colorful dress.

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in colorful dress.

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

A woman in black and blue color dress.

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

A woman is in simple dress.

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Mary Katrantzou, Spring Summer 2010

A woman is sleeping on the floor.

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A Christopher Shannon t-shirt and trousers-combo with pieces by Italo Zuchelli at Calvin Klein

A man in black and white color dress.

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A man in white and blue color dress.

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A man in t-shirt and having bag.

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A man in simple t-shirt.

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A man in blue color dress.

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Christopher Shannon, Spring Summer 2010

A multi-chromatic shirt and short selection by Jsen Wintle combined with a coat from his advocate, Christopher Bailey of Burberry.

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A multi-chromatic shirt and short selection by Jsen Wintle combined with a coat from his advocate, Christopher Bailey of Burberry

A man in dark color dress.

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

A man is having long hair.

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

A man is having bag.

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

A man is in formal suit.

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

A man is wearing white color shoes.

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Jsen Wintle, Spring Summer 2010

A man in blue color dress.

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A bewigged Mare un Rol's model for the Wallpaper* January issue shoot

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house.

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house.

(Image credit: TBC)

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

A lady is looking from door.

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

There are wooden chairs.

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A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

A man is standing.

(Image credit: TBC)

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house.

(Image credit: TBC)

A look book selection from the latest season at Latvian fashion house, Mare un Rol's

Catface mask by Maiko Takeda.

(Image credit: TBC)

Catface mask by Maiko Takeda

Rose headpiece by Maiko Takeda.

(Image credit: TBC)

Rose headpiece by Maiko Takeda

Jack Moss
Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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