Nikos Koulis brings a cool wearability to high jewellery

High jewellery, that melting pot of precious materials and incredibly elevated craftsmanship, can often veer towards the traditional in its aesthetic, something Athens-based jeweller Nikos Koulis has been determined to avoid.

Koulis’ high jewellery is a breath of fresh air. Fluid, modern and cool, his embracing of clever engineering and diamonds in unconventional cuts brings something wholly new to the field. ‘A client once told me that my jewellery is “kind” to women,’ Koulis says. ‘They said it has a gentle attribute, feeling light, fitting right, flowing with movement. I consider fluidity as a core characteristic of my aesthetic, an integral element of how I shape each of my creations. Sometimes, it’s strikingly visible in the design; other times, it’s hidden in the details – how a piece rests against the ear, drapes around the neck or embraces the wrist. It’s in the way it moves, in its softness, in the seamless connection between form and feel. It’s a challenge for craftsmanship, but a very deliberate aesthetic choice. Women should not have any restraints in wearing precious one-of-a-kind pieces, they should enjoy them in a nonchalant and comfortable style.’

In the ‘Wish’ collection, Koulis is inspired by the spiky yet soft character of a dandelion, its spikes here translated into diamonds set in gold, on aluminium. The fluffy seed-heads become unusual diamond cuts, such as the moval, a blend of a marquise and oval cut.

‘It all begins with my deep, almost sensual connection to stones,’ Koulis adds. ‘I am fascinated by searching for unusual cuts, old-mine treasures, rare gems that stand out not for their carat weight, but for their enticing allure. Diamonds, as creations of nature, possess an inherent, timeless beauty. The irresistible charm of a no-heat blue sapphire or a fiery ruby is unmatched.

‘And the magnetism of Colombian emeralds? It lies in their colour and their imperfections, all the more enchanting for their subtle inclusions. The conduit to originality is to experiment with different materials and techniques.'

Koulis enjoys embracing these unusual techniques to bring his vision to life. ‘An anchor for me is black enamel, heated in very high temperatures with a traditional Greek technique. It’s a nod to art deco, made with my signature. I embraced innovation with the clear enamel, where diamonds appear as if floating in a translucent surface. I explored new materials, introducing aluminum in “Wish”. The metal has soft and sculptural transformative powers and it’s so light and smooth, a contrast to how people perceive it. My purpose is to evolve and feed my curiosity.’

nikoskoulis.com