The stars align in Chanel’s new high jewellery collection
Patrice Leguéreau pays tribute to Gabrielle Chanel with the ‘1932’ collection
Chanel commemorates the year it introduced high jewellery with the launch of ‘1932,’ a 77-piece collection encompassing the celestial motifs of the original pieces.
The comet can be found on half the jewels, drawn in white or yellow diamonds or as a detachable brooch, bracelet or ring. On a necklace, it curls around the neck in an interrupted circle, with the diamonds removable, becoming rings. A moon, depicted against a starry sky, makes for a dazzling brooch, its passage through the night traced on a bracelet and hoop earrings, while the sun rises and sets on spectacular high jewellery sets.
‘I wanted to create a different vision of this legacy, by setting these celestial elements in Motion. To do this, I have given figurative expression to the shimmer of the comet, the halo of the moon, and the radiance of the sun,’ says director of Chanel Jewelry Creation Studio, Patrice Leguéreau. ‘These graphic motifs, often detachable, amplify the brilliance of the jewels. The choice of stones and their settings were also designed with this in mind. In addition to diamonds, I have also introduced colour, using exceptional gemstones to represent the celestial universe: blue diamonds, yellow diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires, opals, and rubies.’
‘Gabrielle Chanel had a visionary approach to jewelry,’ says Marianne Etchebarne, global head of watches and fine jewelry Product Marketing, Clients and Communication at Chanel. ‘She had the idea of creating the first High Jewelry collection in history to revolve around one overarching theme - the symbols of her universe (celestial shapes and couture) - which was showcased in her own apartment for fifteen days, another forward-thinking move.’
Ultimately, the collection pays tribute to Gabriell Chanel’s original innovative spirit. Adds Leguéreau: ‘’I wanted to cover women in constellations,’ she would say. I hope that this is what we have achieved, by sprinkling showers of diamonds over their décolleté, putting scintillating comets around their wrists, and presenting them with celestial shapes, illuminating womens' own radiance.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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