Pearls of wisdom: Tasaki’s new collection marries modernity and artistry
Creative director Thakoon Panichgul imbues the new Tasaki balance cross collection with playful wearability for a new generation

Pearls have always held a certain elegance: the multiple ropes which adorned the necks of Coco Chanel and Audrey Hepburn’s Holly Golightly became a lustrous signifier of a certain meticulous beauty. Since then, of course, the rules have been rewritten, and we have seen pearls sliced, studded with spikes and layered with costume jewellery as an insouciant play on their value.
In his decade-long role as creative director of jewellery house Tasaki, Thakoon Panichgul’s treatment of pearls has always stood apart. The pearls, which derive from Tasaki’s own pearl farms in Japan and Myanmar, encapsulate both his intention to modernise the design and the exceptionally skilled levels of craftsmanship a Tasaki pearl requires.
balance cross ring in yellow gold with an Akoya pearl and diamond
‘I think the perception is that pearls are for a more sophisticated set, but that stands to be broken,’ Panichgul says. ‘Pearls can be quite youthful when applied in a different way than what we’ve been used to seeing for a long time.’
A new collection, balance cross, retains this less formal aesthetic Panichgul champions. Perfectly spherical pearls unite with graphic silhouettes of gold in cheerful geometrical juxtapositions. The pearls, paired with diamonds and the cross of the gold, spell out XOXO (commonly recognised as hugs and kisses), Panichgul’s way of dismissing the idea love requires balance.
‘I bring what I think is a modern interpretation,’ he says. ‘We want to be modern for the women of today.’ He enjoys challenging the preconceived ideas of pearls: ‘This is why, in the designs, a lot of the energy that comes out is sometimes a contradiction in form and perception. But ultimately, they are modern.’
balance cross necklace in yellow gold with Akoya pearls
INFORMATION
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
Much of our team was in Copenhagen for 3 Days of Design this week. For those left basking in the London heatwave, it was architecture workshops, photography exhibitions and two very different performances: ballet and Britpop
-
The best bars in London for bartending greatness
From chic hotel cocktail classics to game-changing flavour combinations, our resident drinks correspondent, Neil Ridley, explores ten of the best bars in London
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026: live updates from the Wallpaper* team
From 20-23 June, Milan Fashion Week Men’s arrives in the Italian fashion capital. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 years
Striking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual look
How to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windows
Four British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden Hour
Late summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hit
What started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to know
These independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results