Artist Sophia Vari first realised that her large-scale clay models might also take the more petite form of fine jewellery – or, what she fondly refers to as ‘portable sculptures’ – some 20 years ago. ‘From that day on, I had a new creative challenge that gave me a lot of joy because I could see the pieces being worn,’ she recalls. The wife of painter Fernando Botero, Vari approaches jewellery design in precisely the same manner as her abstract sculptures, collages and paintings, which express an enduring fascination for Cycladic and Olmec art. ‘I don’t differentiate in style or theme. I always work with the same force and exigency.’
'Clytia II' brooch pendant, in 14-ct gold plated silver and wood (2010)
As such, a recently opened exhibition at Galerie Gmurzynska’s St Moritz outpost showcases over 30 of the artist’s geometric jewellery pieces. ‘We wanted to show a cross-section of Vari’s jewellery oeuvre in a gallery context,’ explains Galerie Gmurzynska CEO Mathias Rastorfer. Gmurzynska has previously exhibited artist’s jewellery by names including Calder and Picasso. That Vari’s name is now added to that roster is clearly a source of delight: ‘This gallery has represented so many important artists over decades, it’s a great honour to be exhibited here,’ she says.
From a gold pendant of sharp folds to a structured rose gold cuff with a central marble dome, Vari’s jewellery language is at once abstract and elegant. ‘Aside from being a piece of art that brings beauty and happiness, I believe that jewellery holds memories and that the pieces can transmit this,’ she says. Of her methods, she reveals: ‘It can take a week, a month or even more to realise a piece. I work until I know that I can’t take away or add anything more.’
Left, ‘Laocoon II’ cuff, in 14-ct gold plated silver and marble (1990s). Right, ‘Feu Vibrant’ sculpture in sterling silver (2011)
Left, ‘Talthybios’ ring in 14-ct gold plated silver (2014). Right, ‘Oïlée’ necklace, in 14-ct gold plated silver (2011)
INFORMATION
'Sophia Vari: Magnificent Artist Jewellery' is on view until 12 February 2017. For more information, visit the Galerie Gmurzynska website
ADDRESS
Via Serlas 22
7500 St Moritz
-
A new book on Paul McCartney’s 1970s band Wings documents an inside story of resilience and family'It's a story about a family as well as one about a very famous musician', says author Ted Widmer
-
Rimowa launches limited edition cocktail case in collaboration with Robbe & BerkingGerman engineering meets exquisite craftsmanship and a whole lot of fun in this travel cocktail kit
-
Art Deco's centenary is honoured with a grand exhibition in ParisTo mark 100 years of Art Deco, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris is holding a retrospective that includes furniture, tableware, clothing, jewellery and objets d’art (on view until 26 April 2026)
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collectToday’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
-
Andreas Kronthaler’s costume jewellery for Vivienne Westwood is fun, flirty and fabulousAndreas Kronthaler’s new jewellery draws on romantic and theatrical motifs
-
Fope’s flexible gold chains rethink a classic designElasticity meets elegance in Fope’s new jewellery collection, ‘Luna’
-
Get personal with Bea Bongiasca’s colourful initial necklaces in enamelBea Bongiasca’s ‘B Colour’ collection of initial necklaces brings a chic modernity to personalised jewellery
