Artist Sophia Vari first realised that her large-scale clay models might also take the more petite form of fine jewellery – or, what she fondly refers to as ‘portable sculptures’ – some 20 years ago. ‘From that day on, I had a new creative challenge that gave me a lot of joy because I could see the pieces being worn,’ she recalls. The wife of painter Fernando Botero, Vari approaches jewellery design in precisely the same manner as her abstract sculptures, collages and paintings, which express an enduring fascination for Cycladic and Olmec art. ‘I don’t differentiate in style or theme. I always work with the same force and exigency.’
'Clytia II' brooch pendant, in 14-ct gold plated silver and wood (2010)
As such, a recently opened exhibition at Galerie Gmurzynska’s St Moritz outpost showcases over 30 of the artist’s geometric jewellery pieces. ‘We wanted to show a cross-section of Vari’s jewellery oeuvre in a gallery context,’ explains Galerie Gmurzynska CEO Mathias Rastorfer. Gmurzynska has previously exhibited artist’s jewellery by names including Calder and Picasso. That Vari’s name is now added to that roster is clearly a source of delight: ‘This gallery has represented so many important artists over decades, it’s a great honour to be exhibited here,’ she says.
From a gold pendant of sharp folds to a structured rose gold cuff with a central marble dome, Vari’s jewellery language is at once abstract and elegant. ‘Aside from being a piece of art that brings beauty and happiness, I believe that jewellery holds memories and that the pieces can transmit this,’ she says. Of her methods, she reveals: ‘It can take a week, a month or even more to realise a piece. I work until I know that I can’t take away or add anything more.’
Left, ‘Laocoon II’ cuff, in 14-ct gold plated silver and marble (1990s). Right, ‘Feu Vibrant’ sculpture in sterling silver (2011)
Left, ‘Talthybios’ ring in 14-ct gold plated silver (2014). Right, ‘Oïlée’ necklace, in 14-ct gold plated silver (2011)
INFORMATION
'Sophia Vari: Magnificent Artist Jewellery' is on view until 12 February 2017. For more information, visit the Galerie Gmurzynska website
ADDRESS
Via Serlas 22
7500 St Moritz
-
Cambridge Audio's new earbuds offer premium performance without denting your pocketThe Cambridge Audio Melomania A100 earbuds demonstrate just how far affordable audio tech has come in the last decade
-
A European-style café opens next to London’s Saatchi GalleryDesigned by Dion & Arles, Cafe Linea serves fresh pâtisseries, global dishes and sparkling wines in a stunning Grade II-listed setting
-
Home is where Beethoven Market is – a joyful Italian restaurant in LA’s Mar VistaIn Mar Vista, a historic space is reborn as a modern-day gathering spot, an Italian-infused restaurant where rotisserie chicken, handmade pasta and tableside tiramisu welcome you like family
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
