Numbering’s new collection of oversized jewellery is the most technically accomplished yet

Korean brand Numbering bringa a dark edge to jewellery hardware

Woman wearing chunky gold chain, left, and diamond speckled rings, right
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Korean jewellery brand Numbering brings an edge to chunky chains and jewellery with a new collection which is bold, brazen and fun to wear. The latest pieces in the A/W 2021 collection experiment with a sharp technicality, playing with pigments for jewellery which looks to the dark side.

To create the gleaming black hues, stones are first coated with a resistant material before being dipped in a fluid which contains black pigments; when an electric current passes through the fluid, the black pigments attach themselves to the sterling silver for a resulting metallic hue.

Black and white diamond chains

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It is one of many experimental ideas from the brand - although, they admit, few come to fruition. ‘There are various ideas that get developed throughout our initial designing process, however not all the designs can be formed in the physical world,’ says Kim Noori, founder and director of Numbering. ‘The main challenge is the distance between the idea and actuality. While white colour is done by platinum or rhodium plating, (and sometimes we use raw silver material without any extra material plated,) black colour is finished with the black colour coat. The Carat collection was focused on classical values – subsequently, we wanted to introduce more elements, such as colours, to widen our spectrum of what can be defined as jewellery.’

The dark pieces join new and improved chain styles. Whether forming tightly interlocking and miniature links, or looping thick plaits of N-dia [man-made diamonds] into rings, necklaces and bracelets, jewellery is designed to make an impact. ‘Our main medium so far has been gold, 925 silver, brass and N-dia,’ adds Noori. ‘Numbering aims to continuously develop jewellery with various materials. Within the category of jewellery, our interest will always remain within timeless and joyful materials.’ Further explorations are planned: ‘Numbering's upcoming collection will be introducing a new element – pearl, continuing our journey into the challenges with new materials.’

Ring paved in diamonds

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Black chain ring with diamonds

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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.