Continuing a stealthy turnaround in its design vision, this month Tiffany & Co. announces its intention to put watch-making centre stage, with the launch of a new collection of New York-designed timepieces powered by Swiss movements.
Though overshadowed by its standing as a jeweller and producer of ever-popular designs by visionaries such as Jean Schlumberger and Elsa Peretti, Tiffany's understanding of the business of watch-making is impressive, with roots dating back to its 19th century Geneva manufacture. That means that when it comes to horological prowess, it knows more than most luxury houses about how to build a watch from the base-plate up.
Its John Loring-designed timepieces from the 1980s and 1990s include, arguably, some of the most visionary watch designs of the modern era. Loring, Tiffany & Co's current design director emeritus, helmed the design department for 30 years from 1979 to 2009. Key models of his creative tenure include the Atlas watch, notable for its relief-style Roman numerals that start on the dial then stretch out across the bezel.
Decades before fashion cottoned on to the chic watch as a luxury accessory, Loring had sensed a desire for less formal designs, creating a sports-luxe horological offering for women he knew, Paloma Picasso among them.
The new Tiffany CT60 collection taps into a more classic period of the New York house's watch-making past. The key model, directly inspired by a Tiffany watch presented to Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1945, is handsome, if a little too perfectly so. Its silver powder numerals and traditional Swiss finishes - sunray dial, Côtes de Genève, colimaçon and perlage engraving - may be a tad too "vintage" but they serve to remind the wearer of a certain horological authority.
The Tiffany East West is the real star of the new collection. The 1940s feel is there but, with creative input and jewellery thinking from Tiffany's current design director, Francesca Amfitheatrof, it harks back to the visionary Loring days.
Rather than read the time vertically, you are directed to read it across the wrist - as if the watch were an identity bracelet. The fact that it suits anybody bodes well for the new generation of Tiffany & Co. watch design.
The new Tiffany CT60 collection taps into a more classic period of the New York house's watch-making past
Creative input and jewellery thinking from Tiffany's current design director, Francesca Amfitheatrof, pictured, harks back to the visionary Loring days
A handsome watch, available in a number of finishes, the CT60 serves to remind its wearer of a certain horological authority
The real star of the collection, however, is the Tiffany East West
The East West invites you to read time across the wrist, as though it were an identity bracelet
-
Taschen take a deep-dive into the surrealist world of Salvador DalíTaschen's Dalí. BABY SUMO unites rare imagery with the artist's writing for a sumptous two-volume tome
-
These are the best new interior design projects in AustraliaFrom a beachside retreat to a modern butcher shop, the 2025 Australian Interior Design Awards highlight the multitude of talent down under
-
Scotland's most opulent passenger train just got even more lavishTo mark four decades connecting stops across the majestic highlands, Belmond’s Royal Scotsman has revealed even more plush sleeping cars
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
From Cubism to Pop, artists’ jewellery goes on show in Palm Beach‘Artists’ Jewelry: From Cubism to Pop, the Diane Venet Collection’ at the Norton Museum of Art showcases key pieces from an impressive collection
-
Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
-
Dazzling high jewellery for statement dressersIntricate techniques, bold precious stones and designs unite in these exquisite high jewellery pieces
-
Ulla Johnson’s collaboration with artist Julie Hamisky on the A/W 2025 runway is blooming lovelyUlla Johnson and French artist Julie Hamisky have created 12 new jewellery pieces for the designer's A/W 2025 runway
-
Offbeat placing, diamonds and cool cuts: Shahla Karimi’s architecturally inspired jewelleryFine jewellery is given a cool spin by the New York-based designer Shahla Karimi, who riffs off architectural references for her eponymous brand
-
Pharrell Williams and Tiffany & Co put Tahitian pearls and diamonds in the spotlightTwo new jewellery collections combine Tiffany & Co’s inventive craftsmanship with the creative vision of Pharrell Williams
