No rules jewellery for men takes centre stage
By mixing materials and precious stones, we celebrate jewellery’s rebellious nature
Jewellery’s capacity to spark sentimentality has long been intertwined in the desire we have for adornment. For Neandrathels stringing together animal’s teeth, jewellery imbued the wearer with a protective aura; ancient Greek soldiers bedecked themselves with talismans hoping for good luck in battle. For ancient Romans glittering stones meant a high status worthy of respect; in the Napoleanic era, precious adornments made stylish and political statements. Once signifiers of ancient power structures, jewellery is still symbolic today, but in a clash of metals, pearl, diamonds and precious gems it can become infused with a new irreverence.
For Hermès, the strong silver silhouettes cast by shoulder-grazing earrings are softened by the intricacy of Mikimoto’s Akoya pearl and diamond brooches, while Le Gramme’s thick silver chains are the perfect foil for the delicacy of Van Cleef & Arpels’ mother-of-pearl and gold brooch. By subverting its original function, jewellery is playful: when looped through safety-pins, Bunney’s signet rings and Chaumet’s gold medallion pendants become a one-of-a-kind brooch. With surprising pairings and a new functionality, jewellery never loses its ability to surprise. §
As originally featured in the May 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*254); download the latest issue free here