Jewellery’s capacity to spark sentimentality has long been intertwined in the desire we have for adornment. For Neandrathels stringing together animal’s teeth, jewellery imbued the wearer with a protective aura; ancient Greek soldiers bedecked themselves with talismans hoping for good luck in battle. For ancient Romans glittering stones meant a high status worthy of respect; in the Napoleanic era, precious adornments made stylish and political statements. Once signifiers of ancient power structures, jewellery is still symbolic today, but in a clash of metals, pearl, diamonds and precious gems it can become infused with a new irreverence.
For Hermès, the strong silver silhouettes cast by shoulder-grazing earrings are softened by the intricacy of Mikimoto’s Akoya pearl and diamond brooches, while Le Gramme’s thick silver chains are the perfect foil for the delicacy of Van Cleef & Arpels’ mother-of-pearl and gold brooch. By subverting its original function, jewellery is playful: when looped through safety-pins, Bunney’s signet rings and Chaumet’s gold medallion pendants become a one-of-a-kind brooch. With surprising pairings and a new functionality, jewellery never loses its ability to surprise. §
As originally featured in the May 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*254); download the latest issue free here
