No rules jewellery for men takes centre stage

Men's jewellery’s capacity to spark sentimentality has long been intertwined in the desire we have for adornment. For Neandrathels stringing together animal’s teeth, jewellery imbued the wearer with a protective aura; ancient Greek soldiers bedecked themselves with talismans hoping for good luck in battle. For ancient Romans glittering stones meant a high status worthy of respect; in the Napoleanic era, precious adornments made stylish and political statements. Once signifiers of ancient power structures, jewellery is still symbolic today, but in a clash of metals, pearl, diamonds and precious gems it can become infused with a new irreverence.

Left, Neo wears ‘Grecian’ vermeil chain; ‘Zena’ vermeil chain, both by Hermina Athens. ‘Rose de Noël’ white mother-of-pearl and gold brooch with diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels. 18ct gold badge, by Bunney. Gold ring with black diamond, by Ara Vartanian. Large ‘Rose de Noël’ mother-of-pearl and gold brooch with diamonds; small ‘Rose de Noël’ gold brooch with white mother-of-pearl, both by Van Cleef & Arpels. 18ct gold badge; ‘St Christopher’ 18ct gold signet ring; ‘Hammered Signet’ 18ct gold ring (both worn on pins as brooches), all by Bunney. Right, Pascal wears ‘L’Esprit du Lion’ gold earring with yellow beryl and diamonds, by Chanel Fine Jewellery. Vermeil chain, by Bjørg. ‘Bulgari Bulgari Gelati’ gold brooch with onyx and diamonds; ‘Serpenti’ gold ring with diamonds and emeralds, both by Bulgari. ‘Le 13g’ gold ring; ‘Le 45g’ gold bracelet, both by Le Gramme

For Hermès, the strong silver silhouettes cast by shoulder-grazing earrings are softened by the intricacy of Mikimoto’s Akoya pearl and diamond brooches, while Le Gramme’s thick silver chains are the perfect foil for the delicacy of Van Cleef & Arpels’ mother-of-pearl and gold brooch. By subverting its original function, jewellery is playful: when looped through safety-pins, Bunney’s signet rings and Chaumet’s gold medallion pendants become a one-of-a-kind brooch. With surprising pairings and a new functionality, jewellery never loses its ability to surprise.


As originally featured in the May 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*254); download the latest issue free here

Pascal wears ‘Ball n Chain’ gold necklace, by Jessica McCormack. ‘Légende’ gold medallion pendant with carnelian and ruby; ‘Légende’ gold medallion pendant with diamonds and lapis lazuli (both worn on pins as brooches), both by Chaumet. Neo wears ‘Chaîne d’Ancre Punk’ silver earring, by Hermès. ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured Akoya pearl brooch; ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured Akoya pearl and diamond brooches; ‘Kofuku no ki’ cultured Akoya pearl and diamond brooch, all by Mikimoto. 

‘Rose de Noël’ earring in black mother-of-pearl, gold and diamonds, by Van Cleef & Arpels. ‘Big Knot Necklace No.1’ in oxidised silver, by Saskia Diez. High jewellery ‘Rose’ white gold brooch with pink and white diamonds; ‘Miss Daisy’ white gold and diamonds hair pins (worn as brooch); ‘Miss Daisy’ safety pin brooch, all by David Morris. ‘Paillettes Button’ sterling silver brooch; ‘Grand Mixed Choker’ sterling silver chain (looped to pin), both by Saskia Diez. ‘Le 7g’ sterling silver ring; ‘Le 5g’ sterling silver ring, both by Le Gramme