Unusual materials make for futuristic fine jewellery design
Fine jewellery brand Louiza marries unconventional gemstones with cutting-edge jewellery design
‘Our philosophy can be put into three words – fine jewellery redefined,’ says Louiza Leclercq of her fine jewellery brand, Louiza. Leclercq draws on her Russian heritage, time spent studying in London, and Italian craftsmanship for her subversive pieces, which celebrate unconventional material pairings and unexpected design accents.
‘Our creations are inspired by a passion for architecture, an interest in symbolism and sacred geometry, and exposure to different cultures as a result of the years I have spent living all over the world,’ Leclercq says. ‘I look at jewellery as a form of art, where the value of a piece is not only in the gemstone itself but in the design, the complex manufacturing process, and the inspiration behind it all.’
It is a philosophy that translates into pieces that juxtapose unexpected materials and gemstones. In the ‘Monumenta’ earrings, titanium makes a futuristic foil for tanzanites and sapphires; in the ‘Infinity’ earrings, blackened white gold is teased into a broken hoop. Other pieces play on traditional concepts – the Tokyo ring could make for an alternative engagement ring, with its mint tourmaline sitting on a white diamond lattice in a play on classic high jewellery codes.
‘I endeavour to create a balance between the gemstone and the material that surrounds it,’ Leclercq says. ‘Titanium and carbon fibre allow me to play with shape, volume, and colour. This way I can enhance the appearance of the stone, making the jewellery lighter and more wearable on a daily basis. Only skilled craftsmen can work with materials like titanium, carbon fibre and wood. I think it’s very interesting to bring futuristic materials into jewellery design to give it a modern and edgy look.’
A play on clean architectural lines and unexpected materials define Louiza’s wholly unique aesthetic. ‘I still use traditional designs in the creative process, yet try to deconstruct them, to remove the unnecessary elements while keeping the jewellery both sophisticated and elevated.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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