‘Creating pieces with a sense of light and motion has been a really important focus while designing this series,’ says Liv Luttrell of her new fine jewellery collection. The seven new ‘Editions’ pieces, encompassing earrings, bangles and rings, are defined by an effortless fluidity, curves of gold draping like fabric around the contours of the body.
‘I work in my studio with a view of the garden and it's impossible not to be inspired by the perpetual dance of the elements and the constant movement of light and shade,’ Luttrell adds. ‘The “Strata” earrings have been designed to capture light and motion when worn, while their sister pieces – the “Stratum” ear cuff and bangle – are named after the earth and the powerful rock formations shifting and shaping deep in the earth. The “Schiuma” rings can be stacked together and are designed to move and flow around the finger, creating a different shape from each angle. They are named after the evanescent light on the crest of a wave.’
Subtle showers of diamonds hug the edges of the pieces in a muted juxtaposition of tones – cognac-coloured diamonds in yellow gold, white diamonds in white gold – while a mix of satin- and mirror-polished gold adds a playful marriage of textures.
‘I have always loved mixing white and yellow gold; in many pieces, they feel like perfect partners,’ Luttrell says. ‘They each also bring their own brand of magic to stone settings. The colour and polish of the metal invite the right stones to bring it to life and likewise, the stones, each so unique, dictate where they will best express their light.’
Imbuing the precious metal with its flowing feel proved the greatest challenge for the jewellery designer celebrated for her modern and minimal pieces. ‘There are so many technical and practical issues to keep in mind when designing something as intimate as a piece of jewellery; the strength of a setting has to be married to the weight and comfort of the piece, while the creation of a bangle is – technically speaking – a completely different universe to an earring.’
‘The “Stratum” ear cuff was a particular challenge as I wanted to make sure it worked on as many ears as possible. I carried around a measuring gauge in my pocket for weeks and insisted on measuring all the ears of my nearest and dearest wherever I went. I'm so pleased that the time and effort proved to be worthwhile, as the final design sits perfectly in the middle of all the ears.’
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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