Jewellery design is imbued with a sculptural sensibility in the hands of Liv Luttrell, who traces the natural contours of the human form in whorls of yellow gold and loops of silver. ‘I have always enjoyed the sensuality of shaping metal: there is a real feeling of adventure faced with a flat piece of metal that I sculpt with sometimes subtle, sometimes bold moves to create drama and volume,’ she says.
Understated elements in her jewellery make for enticing accents: a juxtaposition of finishes on the Vol ring creates a rich texture and Twist hoops curl behind the earlobe; while a bespoke clip on the Twist earrings brings functionality to the forefront. Adds Luttrell, ‘the design process is a very personal one: the sensuality of the aesthetic must translate into the same feeling for the wearer.’
By reducing the design to its essential form, she shifts our focus to simple silhouettes and easy wearability. ‘Simplifying a design idea to its most potent parts is an important element of my process. There is a point where the design has been stripped of any fuss but still retains the detail giving it vibrance and personality.’
Luttrell says: ‘The way my designs fit on the body has always been at the core of my work; a piece that fits or hangs well needs to marry with the natural contours of the human form.’
These new pieces build on a past experimentation with texture which adds a sensual edge to the classical forms of the pieces. ‘Texture creates another language when designing: the way light reflects shine or shimmers can completely change the feeling of a piece. I love exploring these different finishes – from a bold, hammered piece to the gentle softness of the Florentine finish.’
‘I discovered this ancient art on my design travels and fell in love with the light it creates. It takes great skill to hand-engrave the multiple intersecting parallel lines that give the gold its beautiful shimmer. For me, it’s a perfect partnership of traditional art and contemporary design.’
A version of this article was originally featured in the May 2022 issue of Wallpaper*, on newsstands now and available to subscribers.
Hannah Silver joined Wallpaper* in 2019 to work on watches and jewellery. Now, as well as her role as watches and jewellery editor, she writes widely across all areas including on art, architecture, fashion and design. As well as offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, Hannah is interested in the quirks of what makes for a digital success story.
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