Hannah Martin rethinks the traditional engagement ring
The jeweller adds a twist to a classic with new engagement ring collection ‘Mad Love’
For cult jeweller Hannah Martin, alternative engagement rings have always been problematic. ‘I find the general concept rather a tricky one,’ she admits. ‘So designing this collection was a challenge to myself in that I had to find a way to make the idea of a ring, as a symbol of commitment, relevant to my own beliefs.’
By expanding the focus from engagement to a more general celebration of love, Martin was able to create a collection which stayed faithful to her sculptural design aesthetic. ‘I called the pieces ‘Rings For Lovers’ and I think the shift in concept also created a shift in design. They aren’t designed for a specific gender, or a specific occasion. They are symbols of an enduring emotion, a commitment – but that commitment can be whatever those involved choose it to be. I hope that the designs reflect this. That being said, I will of course be delighted for them to be used as engagement rings.’
The rings themselves cast loops of gold and diamonds in offbeat silhouettes; in one piece, baguette-cut diamonds form a sensual V; in another, an elegant shackle becomes a golden whorl. Martin’s unexpected placement of the diamonds adds a mischievous edge to classic design – a single baguette-cut diamond is held, askew, in a knife-edged band, while in another piece, a diamond hangs suspended in waves of gold
Martin adds: ‘These rings are intentionally stripped back in design. I wanted them to feel like the ‘essence’, whatever that is. Nothing unnecessary. I was looking for forms that were powerful, showed strength, but had a certain tactility and sensuality to them at the same time. So it was more a feeling that inspired them, rather than any particular object or style. I wanted them to capture, in their own way, the strength and power of a deep emotional connection.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
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