Hannah Martin rethinks the traditional engagement ring
The jeweller adds a twist to a classic with new engagement ring collection ‘Mad Love’
For cult jeweller Hannah Martin, alternative engagement rings have always been problematic. ‘I find the general concept rather a tricky one,’ she admits. ‘So designing this collection was a challenge to myself in that I had to find a way to make the idea of a ring, as a symbol of commitment, relevant to my own beliefs.’
By expanding the focus from engagement to a more general celebration of love, Martin was able to create a collection which stayed faithful to her sculptural design aesthetic. ‘I called the pieces ‘Rings For Lovers’ and I think the shift in concept also created a shift in design. They aren’t designed for a specific gender, or a specific occasion. They are symbols of an enduring emotion, a commitment – but that commitment can be whatever those involved choose it to be. I hope that the designs reflect this. That being said, I will of course be delighted for them to be used as engagement rings.’
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The rings themselves cast loops of gold and diamonds in offbeat silhouettes; in one piece, baguette-cut diamonds form a sensual V; in another, an elegant shackle becomes a golden whorl. Martin’s unexpected placement of the diamonds adds a mischievous edge to classic design – a single baguette-cut diamond is held, askew, in a knife-edged band, while in another piece, a diamond hangs suspended in waves of gold
Martin adds: ‘These rings are intentionally stripped back in design. I wanted them to feel like the ‘essence’, whatever that is. Nothing unnecessary. I was looking for forms that were powerful, showed strength, but had a certain tactility and sensuality to them at the same time. So it was more a feeling that inspired them, rather than any particular object or style. I wanted them to capture, in their own way, the strength and power of a deep emotional connection.’
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Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys travelling, visiting artists' studios and viewing exhibitions around the world, and has interviewed artists and designers including Maggi Hambling, William Kentridge, Jonathan Anderson, Chantal Joffe, Lubaina Himid, Tilda Swinton and Mickalene Thomas.
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