Celebrating a century of Italian jewellery design: Fabio Salini’s modernist eye
Exclusively for Wallpaper*, Fabio Salini curates a section of his postponed exhibition at Phillips New York
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- (opens in new tab)
- Sign up to our newsletter Newsletter

On 10 March, Phillips New York was ready to open its doors to its first contemporary jewellery exhibition of the new decade: ‘Fabio Salini: The New Modernist Jewel’, a celebration of the Italian modernist jeweller’s 20-year career. As the global lockdown took hold, the exhibition was postponed. As ardent followers of Salini’s work, and with no date yet announced as to when the exhibition can go ahead, the Wallpaper* watch and jewellery desk approached the designer to curate a personal selection of five of his favourite pieces. While, in an extract from her opening essay in the Phillips’ exhibition catalogue, the jewellery historian Vivienne Becker puts Salini’s style in context:
‘Fabio Salini studied geology at the University of Rome, before working first at Cartier and then Bulgari. He launched his own collection, in Rome, at Petochi, one of the oldest of Italian jewellers, in 1999. The Phillips exhibition charts the evolution of Salini’s powerful, graphic design aesthetic. From rock crystal, through silk, leather, shagreen, to titanium and matt, black, industrial carbon fibre, his inventive use of materials demonstrates the designer’s continual drive towards technical ingenuity. In addition to his affinity for colour and love of gemstones, Fabio Salini has an instinctive understanding of line, form, composition, and structure.
Above all, ‘Fabio Salini: The New Modernist Jewel' demonstrates Fabio Salini’s determination to innovate, to dare to be different, to re-ignite the spirit of audacity and modernity that keeps the story of jewellery moving forward.’
Here, discover Fabio Salini's section from ‘The New Modernist Jewel’ exhibition
Snake necklace in blue shagreen, white and blackened gold, blue titanium, blue sapphires, diamonds and central oval-cut sapphire of 21.15 cts
‘This very precious piece was made for a client who has a very strong personality. Not only did she want a snake, but she wanted it in a very aggressive position, so I decided to design it in a mode of attack, with a big oval-cut, 21ct sapphire in its mouth. I used stingray because it represented the wild side of the animal and also represented the texture of snakeskin.’
Necklace in carbon fibre with 292.78 cts of coloured gemstones, rondelles in white gold and diamonds
‘A sizeable section of the exhibition is dedicated to carbon fibre (a composite material that is extremely strong and deceptively lightweight). It brings a masculinity and strength to jewellery design, along with an idea of technology. This necklace was born from the idea of yin and yang – opposites that create a balance: matt and sparkling, non-precious and precious, rigid and articulated, one row of cold colours against a row of warm ones. All this contrast, in a way, creates a powerful feeling. This is what I strive to bring to my designs – jewellery that fuses innovation and tradition to create something new and unconventional.’
Bracelet in green titanium and white gold, with baguette-cut green tourmalines (59.61 cts), central Asscher-cut diamonds (3.48 cts) and pavé-set diamonds (2.88 cts)
‘Titanium is an important material for me – here a coloured variety perfectly matches the colour of the green tourmaline baguette which represents the centre and the preciousness of this piece. The bracelet also displays another recurring motif in my designs – the use of symbols, such as the knot, a chain, a net, a cage, the belt. These all represent holding, or linking. In a way, they are each symbols of possession, because I think that giving someone jewellery is a sign of love.’
Left, titanium earrings in different shades of blue, with aquamarines 3.23 cts, blue topazes 6.21 cts, iolites 4.36 cts, edged in diamonds 2.23 cts and right, carbon fibre and gold earrings with frontal lines of pear-shape emeralds and baguette-cut emeralds (12.47 cts)
‘These are probably my favourite pieces in the whole exhibition (right), because they have a pure simplicity. The front-on view of the earrings allows you to see what appears to be a very traditional, long drop made with precious stones. But the back offers a different view – flat, spherical, carbon fibre pieces inspired by African tribal discs, which I added to create a sense of volume.'
‘I think that bringing the future and exploring the new in jewellery is very important in making it contemporary and fresh. Here (left), the design reference is satellites, while the use of titanium also reflects the desire to create something very contemporary and futuristic. The exhibition dedicates an area to my use of titanium in jewellery, which I see as a kind of space-age metal. Jewellery historian Vivienne Becker puts it her own way: ‘The mirror-like gold surfaces of these designs lure us into infinite depths of colour and light, beckoning us into Fabio Salini’s world of the 21st century modernist jewel.’
INFORMATION
-
Photo book explores the messy, magical mundanity of new motherhood
‘Sorry I Gave Birth I Disappeared But Now I’m Back’ by photographer Andi Galdi Vinko explores new motherhood in all its messy, beautiful reality
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Rimowa violin case with Gewa strikes the right note
This new Rimowa violin case created in collaboration with Gewa is made of hard-wearing grooved aluminium
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Nordic Knots opens Stockholm showroom in a former cinema
New Nordic Knots Stockholm showroom makes the most of the dramatic interiors of the early-20th-century Eriksbergsteatern
By Pei-Ru Keh • Published
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a moment
We've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Alternative engagement rings with an edge
As the sales of engagement rings sky-rocket during lockdown, enjoy our off-kilter curation of edgy and unconventional engagement rings
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collect
Today’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
Eternity rings for the modern couple
Eternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
By Hannah Silver • Published
-
CryptoPunks come to life on Tiffany & Co pendants
Tiffany & Co has partnered with blockchain infrastructure company Chain to create custom pendants and NFTiffs
By Hannah Silver • Last updated
-
Andreas Kronthaler’s costume jewellery for Vivienne Westwood is fun, flirty and fabulous
Andreas Kronthaler’s new jewellery draws on romantic and theatrical motifs
By Hannah Silver • Last updated
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal pieces
A host of jewellers have given us a peek at the jewellery which has brought them solace this year
By Hannah Silver • Last updated
-
Fope’s flexible gold chains rethink a classic design
Elasticity meets elegance in Fope’s new jewellery collection, ‘Luna’
By Hannah Silver • Last updated