Elsa Peretti bone cuff turns fifty

Black finish over copper — Limited-edition bone cuff in black finish over copper, £615, by Elsa Peretti, for Tiffany & Co

(Image credit: Harvey Waller)

Elsa Peretti’s tenure at Tiffany & Co ushered in a new era of simplicity in jewellery design. The Italian-born former model’s jewellery career began in the 1970s with sculptural pieces created for friend and fashion designer Halston. She preferred working in silver, then a metal rarely considered special enough for fine jewellery. By eschewing the ornate aesthetic that had hitherto characterised the decade, Peretti brought organic concepts to the forefront. Her translation of the natural creations that inspired her, such as beans, hearts and starfish, utilised empty space, creating clean, uncluttered outlines.

As a child, her curiosity was sparked by visits to the crypt of a 17th century Roman church and Antoni Gaudí’s Casa Mila in Barcelona, and her perennially popular bone cuff was born from these sojourns, the undulating lines of Gaudí’s work later mirrored in the cuff’s contours. Characterised by an ergonomic sensuality, each cuff is designed specifically for either the left or the right wrist in order to better hug its curves. To mark the cuff’s 50th anniversary, Tiffany & Co has partnered with Dover Street Market for a new limited-edition version. Crafted from copper, it features a gothic black finish, a fitting nod to its macabre roots.

INFORMATION

This article originally appeared in the December 2020 issue of Wallpaper* (W*259), at newsstands now or available for free download here

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Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.

With contributions from

Harvey Waller - Photography