Ellipse gloss: Patek Philippe updates an era-defining dress watch
The unique nature of Swiss watch design – strongly defined by technical and decorative handcraft – has always allowed maverick ideas to flourish and endure, even against the backdrop of growing mass production in the horological industry during the 1950s and 1960s.
The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, launched in 1968, embodies a collision of eras. The original dial of blue-gold, a specially created alloy, looked back to goldsmith techniques of the 1950s: the slim case, hands and indices emit 1960s suave, yet the piece's substantial, lozenge-like form hints at early 1970s futurism. Three decades of iterations have rendered the design a true classic; Patek even launched accessories, including Golden Ellipse lighters, pendants and cufflinks.
Debate abounds as to the Golden Ellipse's origins – one idea is that its shape was inspired by an aerial view of a US highway junction, while its form points to a golden ratio philosophy. This latter theory has merit; the women's versions are as handsomely proportioned as the men's, their form undiminished on a smaller wrist.
In its 50th year, the Golden Ellipse serves as a classic dress watch and symbol of taste. The 2018 update, the 573R-001, a jumbo – grande taille – edition with a 34mm x 39.5mm rose-gold case, survey black-dial and typically superfine rose-gold hands and indices, pays homage to its legacy. It is accompanied by a special-edition set of cufflinks for the true horology connoisseur. §
As originally featured in the October 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*235)
INFORMATION
For more information, visit the Patek Philippe website
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Caragh McKay is a contributing editor at Wallpaper* and was watches & jewellery director at the magazine between 2011 and 2019. Caragh’s current remit is cross-cultural and her recent stories include the curious tale of how Muhammad Ali met his poetic match in Robert Burns and how a Martin Scorsese Martin film revived a forgotten Osage art.
-
Design makes a welcome return to the Dakar Biennale, sounding a clarion call to Africa’s new creative generation
The Dakar Biennale 2024 (7 November – 7 December) includes design for the first time in 20 years; here are four designers to look out for and what the event means to them
By Mazzi Odu Published
-
Hot metal: why shiny tableware is a holy grail of hosting
From a silvery modernist coffee pot to a perfectly poised stainless-steel candleholder, bring glimmer to dinner with shiny metal tableware
By Bridget Downing Published
-
Denmark’s BIG has shaped itself the ultimate studio on the quayside in Copenhagen
Bjarke Ingels’ studio BIG has practised what it preaches with a visually sophisticated, low-energy office with playful architectural touches
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Vacheron Constantin unveils the Historiques 222 to mark 45 years since the model’s launch
Vacheron Constantin restates its place in the pantheon of ‘sports chic’ watches
By Bill Prince Last updated
-
This Timex retro quartz watch is straight from the 1970s
The Q Timex 1972 Reissue watch stays faithful to the design codes of the original
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Classic meets cool in Nomos Glashütte’s platinum grey watch design
Two new Tangente Neomatik watches draw on Nomos Glashütte’s clean German design codes
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Girard-Perregaux goes back to the future with rethought Casquette watch
Girard-Perregaux pays tribute to its original 1970s watch with the new and updated Casquette 2.0
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
G-Shock marks 40 years of youth culture with limited-edition watch
G-Shock and the Museum of Youth Culture look to the archives for the new GW-M5610MOYC-1ER watch
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Ten watch brands mark Mr Porter’s anniversary with special editions
Ten watch brands, including Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Bell & Ross, are celebrating Mr Porter’s tenth anniversary in style
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Atelier Oï’s Louis Erard watch is inspired by a minimalist sundial
Atelier Oï has rethought the Louis Erard Le Régulateur watch with a minimalist dial, engraved as if with rays of light
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nomos Autobahn watch is rethought by designer Werner Aisslinger
Three new models make up the Nomos Autobahn Director’s Cut Limited Edition watch series, in motoring-inspired hues
By Hannah Silver Last updated