Stripes, checks, tie-dye and Liberty prints, more commonly the preserve of garments, are drawn onto swirling loops of diamonds in Victoire de Castellane’s high jewellery collection, ‘Dior Print’. The artistic director of Dior Joaillerie is inspired by the intricacies of an haute couture gown for the 137 new pieces, which are adorned with playful motifs.
‘The idea was to “draw prints on ribbons or flowers”,’ de Castellane tells us of her interpretation of both classic and figurative prints. ‘Each printed pattern is thought of as a hand-stitched fabric, [on which the] positioning of the stones gives a deliberately rowdy appearance to the whole.’
The collection imbues ribbons of precious gems with delicate gradients of colour or draws the ubiquitous Liberty print in ruby, spinel and yellow diamonds. Graphic rings, cuffs and necklaces eschew traditional symmetrical silhouettes to embrace random design codes, while floral prints and stripes are imposed on gold strands which become an intricate necklace.
‘For me, colour in jewellery is very important and I like to use all kinds of coloured stones; mix them and play with gradations, contrasts or monochrome,’ de Castellane adds. ‘I have the chance to work with the best Parisian workshops, who realise my designs and adapt or develop the necessary manufacturing processes in order to achieve the design I have in mind.’
The technically accomplished Dior high jewellery collection draws on traditional watchmaking skills to create articulated lightweight links for a necklace that drapes over the collarbone, its fluid form and entanglement of multicolour ribbons more material than metal.
‘New techniques have been developed that pay tribute to the designs at the origin of the creations. The necklaces, whose necklines are formed by jewel ribbons, challenged the ateliers, who had to create fine volumes that perfectly mould with the skin.’ §
