For Rosh Mahtani, founder and designer of Alighieri Jewellery, a collaboration with clothing brand Nanushka was a logical move. ‘When I met Sandra (Sandor, founder and creative director of Nanushka) last year, the idea of creating a collection together came very naturally because we had very similar sources of inspirations,’ says Mahtani. ‘I loved the idea of bringing our two worlds together. We both share a love of imperfection, of rituals and of craftsmanship so it wasn’t difficult to find mutual ground.’
The resulting pieces play on jewellery as armour, reworking hand-cast gold into cuffs, earrings, pendants and rings.
The designers’ shared love of imperfection takes shape in gold jewellery fused into the relaxed silhouettes of the dresses, which nod to the heritage of both Budapest-born Sandor and Mahtani who lived in Zambia and London. There is nothing fragile about the tough, textured gold; a deliberate move which contemplates the changing nature of femininity. ‘It reflects what it means to be a woman in the modern day; the bulbous shapes are a nod to ancient fertility rituals, and the layers are tough like armour. This juxtaposition is all about the idea that as women, we are adept at combining the sensitivity and strength,’ says Mahtani.
Sandor’s AW20 moodboard and collection were the foundations for the designs which overlay her depictions of monastic grunge with sensuality. While inspired by the intricately crafted works of Dante’s contemporaries, these pieces are imbued with an extra strength. For Sandor, the rawness of the jewels is a complement to her clothing which, like the jewellery, is made to be layered, stacked or mixed together. ‘I like to work with organic shapes and textures and that’s evident in the jewellery as well,’ she adds. §
