The opening of the Campo Modern Grill in the old Polish city of Wrocław is noteworthy on at least two fronts. First, for its location on the ground floor of the blinding white, bean-shaped curve of the OVO building, designed by Gottesman-Szmelcman Architecture. The other is its menu of charcoal grilled Argentinean steaks, a startling contrast to a traditional cuisine that’s firmly predisposed towards stewed meats and noodles.

The interiors by local studio Buck are visually anchored by a long sculptural wall of polished black pebbles against which is framed cherry wood shelves, black terrazzo floors, oak furniture, and pleasing details of brass and calf leather door handles. From his kitchen hidden behind a 14m long bar, head chef Tomasz Nowak flips great slabs of organic beef – all sourced from the Ojo de Agua farm in Balcarce, a particularly bovine-friendly region in Argentina – that he serves with little more than lashings of chimichurri, and watercress mayonnaise.