The ryokan, reinvented: checking in at Hoshinoya Tokyo

Hoshinoya Tokyo rewrites the ryokan for the modern city, a barefoot ascent through layered rituals, tradition and restorative onsen culture

hoshinoya tokyo
(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Hoshinoya Tokyo, the fifth property in the Hoshino Resorts portfolio – pioneers of eco-tourism and the contemporary onsen – offers a modern reworking of Japan’s most venerable hotel typology: the ryokan. Conceived as a ‘Tower of Ryokan’, the property spans two subterranean levels and 17 floors above ground. Against the straight-laced skyscrapers in the city’s financial district, the property might not be one of the loftier hotels in Tokyo, but what it lacks in height it makes up for in clever design choices.

Wallpaper* checks in at Hoshinoya Tokyo

What’s on your doorstep?

The journey begins barefoot, stepping onto tatami at the entrance, an immediate tonal shift that sets the stage for a feudal-inflected experience worlds away from the city outside. Hoshinoya Tokyo sits close to Ōtemachi Financial City, a cluster of three high-rise complexes whose subterranean levels are dense with food courts beneath the headquarters of banks, trading firms and media houses. Come evening, this translates into lively izakayas populated by white-shirted salarymen. A short stroll away is Jimbocho, beloved by Tokyoites for its atmospheric second-hand bookshops and book-lined streets.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Exterior

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Who is behind the design?

Courtesy of local outfit Azuma Architects, the elegant black-latticed facade – inspired by an ancient kimono motif – is indicative of the understated luxury that lies inside. Fourteen of the floors are each set up to resemble a traditional Japanese inn, with six guest rooms per floor surrounding a central living space. The attention to detail is evident in the tatami flooring, washi paper shoji screens, low-lying furnishings and soft, considered lighting that seduces you to don your yukata and pad around freely.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Entrance

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

The room to book

Each floor offers three room categories. At entry level, the Yuri (Deluxe King) and Sakura (Deluxe Twin) rooms form a soothing cocoon, where low tatami sofas and floor-level bedding invite lingering. The most generous option, the Kiku (Executive Triple), sleeps up to three guests across approximately 80 sq m, complete with a dining table and walk-in wardrobe, ideal for longer stays.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Guest Room Yuri

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Guest Room Yuri

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Every floor also features a communal living room, the Ochanoma Lounge, where seasonal snacks and refreshments, alongside tea and coffee, are available around the clock, complimentary. Shelving here showcases works by Japanese artisans.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Ochanoma Lounge

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Staying for drinks and dinner?

The subterranean dining floor is enveloped in richly textured plasterwork and dramatic natural stone. Beyond the striking foyer, the space opens into a serene dining area with six private tatami rooms and four refined table seats. Breakfast is served here, with a choice between the Holistic Ryokan Breakfast – a Japanese set comprising kobachi (small side dishes), a nine-item assortment, grilled and covered dishes, steamed white rice and miso soup – or a Western alternative.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Restaurant entrance

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Breakfast

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Opened in 2025, Sushi Otemon occupies a corner of the main dining space, centred around an eight-seat counter. Also newly launched is an intimate dining concept titled Lost Flavours of Japanese Home Recipes, led by chef Ryosuke Oka. The menu resurrects dishes that have faded from contemporary tables, such as shimotsukare – a resourceful blend of salt-cured salmon heads and soybeans traditionally made from New Year leftovers – and kajiya nabe, fresh octopus and aubergine simmered in a sweet-savoured dashi. For those preferring privacy, an in-room menu of light dishes and drinks is also available.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Sushi Otemon

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Ganijiru

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Where to switch off

The 17th floor is home to an indoor/outdoor onsen, supplied from spring waters 1,500m below the bustling Tokyo streets. The Otemachi Hot Spring is a sodium chloride spring containing iodine, rich in minerals derived from ancient seawater and seaweed trapped deep underground. Its slightly dark, viscous water is prized for moisturising and heat-retaining qualities. Onsen newcomers are thoughtfully guided through etiquette – including the post-soak ritual of a chilled bottle of milk. Treatments are also offered, from all-hand oil massages to facials using Japanese and Chinese botanicals. Beyond wellness, the hotel curates a compelling programme of cultural experiences, some complimentary and others ticketed, ranging from tea ceremonies to sky-high kenjutsu practice.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Hot Spring

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Hot Spring

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

The verdict

A stay at Hoshinoya Tokyo is genuinely transformative. It nudges international guests beyond familiar comforts, inviting immersion in rituals and customs woven deeply into the property’s DNA. It is an ideal gateway into the nuances of Japanese culture and history, delivered with generosity and clarity by an engaged, attentive team. The result is an experience that feels both enriching and restorative.

hoshinoya tokyo hotel review

Basement entrance

(Image credit: Courtesy of Hoshino Resorts)

Hoshinoya Tokyo is located at 1 Chome-9-1 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0004, Japan

Travel Editor

Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.