The ryokan, reinvented: checking in at Hoshinoya Tokyo
Hoshinoya Tokyo rewrites the ryokan for the modern city, a barefoot ascent through layered rituals, tradition and restorative onsen culture
Hoshinoya Tokyo, the fifth property in the Hoshino Resorts portfolio – pioneers of eco-tourism and the contemporary onsen – offers a modern reworking of Japan’s most venerable hotel typology: the ryokan. Conceived as a ‘Tower of Ryokan’, the property spans two subterranean levels and 17 floors above ground. Against the straight-laced skyscrapers in the city’s financial district, the property might not be one of the loftier hotels in Tokyo, but what it lacks in height it makes up for in clever design choices.
Wallpaper* checks in at Hoshinoya Tokyo
What’s on your doorstep?
The journey begins barefoot, stepping onto tatami at the entrance, an immediate tonal shift that sets the stage for a feudal-inflected experience worlds away from the city outside. Hoshinoya Tokyo sits close to Ōtemachi Financial City, a cluster of three high-rise complexes whose subterranean levels are dense with food courts beneath the headquarters of banks, trading firms and media houses. Come evening, this translates into lively izakayas populated by white-shirted salarymen. A short stroll away is Jimbocho, beloved by Tokyoites for its atmospheric second-hand bookshops and book-lined streets.
Exterior
Who is behind the design?
Courtesy of local outfit Azuma Architects, the elegant black-latticed facade – inspired by an ancient kimono motif – is indicative of the understated luxury that lies inside. Fourteen of the floors are each set up to resemble a traditional Japanese inn, with six guest rooms per floor surrounding a central living space. The attention to detail is evident in the tatami flooring, washi paper shoji screens, low-lying furnishings and soft, considered lighting that seduces you to don your yukata and pad around freely.
Entrance
The room to book
Each floor offers three room categories. At entry level, the Yuri (Deluxe King) and Sakura (Deluxe Twin) rooms form a soothing cocoon, where low tatami sofas and floor-level bedding invite lingering. The most generous option, the Kiku (Executive Triple), sleeps up to three guests across approximately 80 sq m, complete with a dining table and walk-in wardrobe, ideal for longer stays.
Guest Room Yuri
Guest Room Yuri
Every floor also features a communal living room, the Ochanoma Lounge, where seasonal snacks and refreshments, alongside tea and coffee, are available around the clock, complimentary. Shelving here showcases works by Japanese artisans.
Ochanoma Lounge
Staying for drinks and dinner?
The subterranean dining floor is enveloped in richly textured plasterwork and dramatic natural stone. Beyond the striking foyer, the space opens into a serene dining area with six private tatami rooms and four refined table seats. Breakfast is served here, with a choice between the Holistic Ryokan Breakfast – a Japanese set comprising kobachi (small side dishes), a nine-item assortment, grilled and covered dishes, steamed white rice and miso soup – or a Western alternative.
Restaurant entrance
Breakfast
Opened in 2025, Sushi Otemon occupies a corner of the main dining space, centred around an eight-seat counter. Also newly launched is an intimate dining concept titled Lost Flavours of Japanese Home Recipes, led by chef Ryosuke Oka. The menu resurrects dishes that have faded from contemporary tables, such as shimotsukare – a resourceful blend of salt-cured salmon heads and soybeans traditionally made from New Year leftovers – and kajiya nabe, fresh octopus and aubergine simmered in a sweet-savoured dashi. For those preferring privacy, an in-room menu of light dishes and drinks is also available.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Sushi Otemon
Ganijiru
Where to switch off
The 17th floor is home to an indoor/outdoor onsen, supplied from spring waters 1,500m below the bustling Tokyo streets. The Otemachi Hot Spring is a sodium chloride spring containing iodine, rich in minerals derived from ancient seawater and seaweed trapped deep underground. Its slightly dark, viscous water is prized for moisturising and heat-retaining qualities. Onsen newcomers are thoughtfully guided through etiquette – including the post-soak ritual of a chilled bottle of milk. Treatments are also offered, from all-hand oil massages to facials using Japanese and Chinese botanicals. Beyond wellness, the hotel curates a compelling programme of cultural experiences, some complimentary and others ticketed, ranging from tea ceremonies to sky-high kenjutsu practice.
Hot Spring
Hot Spring
The verdict
A stay at Hoshinoya Tokyo is genuinely transformative. It nudges international guests beyond familiar comforts, inviting immersion in rituals and customs woven deeply into the property’s DNA. It is an ideal gateway into the nuances of Japanese culture and history, delivered with generosity and clarity by an engaged, attentive team. The result is an experience that feels both enriching and restorative.
Basement entrance
Hoshinoya Tokyo is located at 1 Chome-9-1 Ōtemachi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo 100-0004, Japan
Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.
-
A first look at Bulgari Resort and Mansions BodrumArchitecture, landscape and refined luxury come together at this Mediterranean retreat, opening in 2027
-
Togo's Palais de Lomé stages a sweeping new survey of West African design'Design in West Africa' in Lomé, Togo (on view until 15 March 2026), brings together contemporary designers and artisans whose work bridges tradition and experimentation
-
Vigilante’s 1979 Jeep Wagoneer features luxury trim, modern muscle and elevated stylingTexan restomod master Vigilante has created a new take on the classic Jeep Wagoneer, transforming the 1970s family SUV into a sleek, architectural powerhouse
-
Curvilinear futurism meets subtropical beaches at Not A Hotel’s ZHA-designed Okinawa retreatZaha Hadid Architects has revealed the design for the first property in Not A Hotel’s futuristic new Vertex collection, coming soon to southern Japan
-
Free flights across Japan? ANA just made it happenA new All Nippon Airways scheme in collaboration with the Japan National Tourism Organization aims to ease overtourism in major hubs by boosting regional travel
-
Is this Tokyo’s most alluring new hotel?In the world’s busiest capital, a new benchmark for serenity emerges 35 floors above ground. We checked into the Fairmont Tokyo
-
A cinematic members’ club rises in Japan’s forested hillsJoyce Wang Studio unveils The Magarigawa Club Clubhouse in Chiba
-
How Ichio Matsuzawa designed the almost-invisible bar defining Art Week Tokyo 2025During the 2025 edition of AWT, Wallpaper* met the Japanese architect to explore architecture as sensation, not structure
-
In Sou Fujimoto’s far-flung Not A Hotel villa, solitude feels almost planetaryAn underwater sauna, an infinity pool and a circular courtyard garden are just a few of the highlights at Not A Hotel’s latest outpost, on Japan’s Ishigaki Island
-
Check into a new pocket-sized Tokyo hotelSoil Nihonbashi Hotel brings greenery, warmth and a neighbourhood spirit to a quiet corner near Tokyo Central Station
-
Explore Hiroshima through the eyes of those who rebuilt itJapan’s architectural phoenix continues to rise. ‘The Hiroshima Architecture Exhibition 2025’ explores a legacy of memory and modernism across 23 architects and artist groups