50 Frith Street
Like most Londoners, we’ve got a soft spot for Indian food. The recent opening of Mooli’s in London’s Soho burgh, though, has us especially humming with pleasure. Putting a new spin on a cuisine that’s normally (if stereotypically) associated with ghee-laden curries and heavy breads, this street food-inspired eatery dishes out tasty roti rolls with wonderful fillings.
Opened by Sameer Singh and Matthew Chandy, Mooli’s is all about delicious food on the go. Indeed, the founders dedicated spent several months to travelling the length and breadth of their homeland before settling on the handful of dishes that have been cleverly adapted from its dusty street origins.
And so, with seasoned aplomb, the kitchen, led by the very capable chef Raju, wraps the home-made tortilla-thin roti around tender morsels of Keralan braised beef, fiery Goan pork, cumin-roasted potatoes, homemade chicken and five-spiced paneer. On the side are modern embellishments like pomegranate salsa and apple salad.
Every aspect of the food chain, as it were, has been carefully considered. The rolls, for instance, are available in two sizes, while carb-counters can opt to have a fillings of a hefty salad. Meanwhile, the five chutneys available with each roll, such as Raju’s special tamarind sauce and an explosive green chilli hot sauce, are homemade. Also on the menu are poppadum chips, mango lassi and creamy kulfis for that prerequisite sweet finish.