Like most Londoners, we’ve got a soft spot for Indian food. The recent opening of Mooli's in London's Soho burgh, though, has us especially humming with pleasure. Putting a new spin on a cuisine that’s normally (if stereotypically) associated with ghee-laden curries and heavy breads, this street food-inspired eatery dishes out tasty roti rolls with wonderful fillings.
Opened by Sameer Singh and Matthew Chandy, Mooli’s is all about delicious food on the go. Indeed, the founders dedicated spent several months to travelling the length and breadth of their homeland before settling on the handful of dishes that have been cleverly adapted from its dusty street origins.
And so, with seasoned aplomb, the kitchen, led by the very capable chef Raju, wraps the home-made tortilla-thin roti around tender morsels of Keralan braised beef, fiery Goan pork, cumin-roasted potatoes, homemade chicken and five-spiced paneer. On the side are modern embellishments like pomegranate salsa and apple salad.
Every aspect of the food chain, as it were, has been carefully considered. The rolls, for instance, are available in two sizes, while carb-counters can opt to have a fillings of a hefty salad. Meanwhile, the five chutneys available with each roll, such as Raju’s special tamarind sauce and an explosive green chilli hot sauce, are homemade. Also on the menu are poppadum chips, mango lassi and creamy kulfis for that prerequisite sweet finish.
50 Frith Street
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Melina Keays is the entertaining director of Wallpaper*. She has been part of the brand since the magazine’s launch in 1996, and is responsible for entertaining content across the print and digital platforms, and for Wallpaper’s creative agency Bespoke. A native Londoner, Melina takes inspiration from the whole spectrum of art and design – including film, literature, and fashion. Her work for the brand involves curating content, writing, and creative direction – conceiving luxury interior landscapes with a focus on food, drinks, and entertaining in all its forms
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