PAD London: jewellers work traditional techniques into rich, modern forms

The annual art and design fair in the centre of London presents compelling work from some of the world’s most singular contemporary jewellery designers. This year, materials move beyond simply precious, with ancient skills and cultural motifs rising to the fore in many of the jewel collections on show. When paired with traditional precious gem cuts and modern silhouettes, these new-era designs take on an original character of their own.

By Hannah Silver

last updated 31 October 2022

in Features

Shell earrings with diamonds and white gold, by Glenn Spiro

Glenn Spiro’s pieces are united only in their individuality, his bespoke pieces raising expectation beyond traditional high jewellery forms. Here, diamonds would normally take centre stage, but when juxtaposed against the smooth rounds of the natural shell - which has been covered in a gleaming resin as a form of protection - they take on a singular, offbeat character.

PAD London runs from 30 September - 6 October at Berkeley Square

Cameo earrings in ebony, bronze, white gold and diamonds, by Hemmerle

The Munich high jewellery brand has consistently redefined precious design with a particular take on ancient culture and related materials. Often it is defined by their use of curious fabric mixes, such as pock wood and tsavorite garnets and melo-pearls with copper and pink gold. This year, they have applied traditional cameo techniques to ebony, subverting conventional design notions in their own unique way.

PAD London runs from 30 September - 6 October at Berkeley Square

Yellow gold ring with rutilated quartz, by Jacqueline Rabun for Objet d'Emotion

Valery Demure’s thoughtful, contemporary edits for PAD mean the presence of her Objet d’Emotion collective is a PAD highlight. This year, American jeweller and former Wallpaper Handmade collaborator Jacqueline Rabun joins in, creating a single ring from two independent pieces. The duality of the ring is reflected in its loose parts, one gold and one quartz, brought together in a clash of textures to make a fluid whole.

PAD London runs from 30 September - 6 October at Berkeley Square

Hessonite ring with vitreous enamel and gold, by Alice Cicolini at Objet d&rsquo;Emotion

Hessonite ring with vitreous enamel and gold, by Alice Cicolini at Objet d'Emotion

Another Objet d’Emotion exhibitor, Alice Cicolini’s jewels uphold ancient, Indian enamelling traditions – her jewels are hand-crafted there and the designer is keen to keep the technique alive. Pastoral idylls are engraved directly into central gold, with the softness of the metal allowing for highly intricate levels of detail. Here, the ring itself has been hewn from hessonite, with the gold top part of the ring allowing for the delicate embellishments.

PAD London runs from 30 September - 6 October at Berkeley Square

Rose gold earrings with miniature paintings, amethyst and pink sapphires, by Silvia Furmanovich for Objet d'Emotion

Jewels created using marquetry in Amazonian wood keep their grooves and flaws to reveal their history, while miniature paintings in a powdered-gem mix inspired by the Brazilian jeweller’s travels in India make for historically rich accoutrements. See Furmanovich at L’Objet d’Emotion.

PAD London runs from 30 September - 6 October at Berkeley Square

Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.